Still Sewing in the Shadows

Despite the lack of photographs, I am still sewing. Slowly. I am still on McCall’s 5094. The muslin (and the resulting bodice) was too large, so I had to re-draft.

What I’ve learned so far:

1. Always cut off the 5/8 seam allowances that the pattern companies give you.
2. Measure the pieces flat, and compare them to your measurements (without seam allowances).
3. Add in the seam allowance when cutting (1/2 an inch usually, 1 inch for the zipper or the center back.)
4. Make v notches in the center front.
5. Make lots of notches (snips) so you can match up the sides.
6. Don’t use large pins as they can leave holes in the fabric if you leave them on for a week or so.
7. When gathering, use two basting running stitches and leave them very close to each other. Pull only the bobbin thread and secure by putting a figure-8 around a pin. Always measure your gathers to make sure your pattern still fits!
8. Match up your seams. Especially princess seams.
9. Always make a muslin to adjust for fit after measuring the flat pattern pieces.
10. Mark the seam allowance on the edges of your pattern so when you’re cutting you know how much to add.

Hopefully I can have a post with more pictures soon.

project update: McCall’s 5094

Muslin finished over the weekend. Surprisingly it fits. Put the lining for the bodice in today, and surprisingly it doesn’t look that bad. The gathers are really uneven, hopefully that will be resolved in the real version.

Notes: The skirt will be from another pattern that already fits, modified for a back zipper. Fabric is in a coral cotton sateen which looks much more formal then I thought it would. If this works out, would like to make another version in an eyelet, seersucker or cotton floral that is more casual.

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Pattern Review: Simplicity 2906, view A

Pattern Review: Simplicity 2906, view A

Pattern Description: Misses skirts and purse. Skirts have side zipper.

Pattern Sizing: 8-18. I made size 10, view A.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. I glanced at most of the directions and did not find assembly too difficult. I serged the seams first, then assembled the parts according to the instructions. I learned how to make a lapped zipper from this project.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the vintage feel of the skirt.

Fabric Used: Violet checkered shirting fabric. Nice and light, and gives a good drape to the skirt.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Fast and easy to make. The basic skirt is two pattern pieces, with a side zipper.

Conclusion I will definitely make more of these skirts in the future.

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Basic Pattern Fitting

- When buying a pattern for an upper-body garment (jacket, dress, shirt, blouse, or coat), choose the size that fits your shoulders and neckline

- When buying a lower-body pattern (pants or skirt), choose a size that fits your waist and upper hip. Shoulders/necklines and waists/upper hips on patterns are very difficult to alter, so it’s easiest to start off with the closest possible fit right from the pattern envelope.

- When you choose tops, use your chest measurement (above the bust, as high as possible under your arms, and over your shoulder blades—don’t worry if the tape isn’t perfectly horizontal at all points) and alter for the bust if there’s more than a 2-in. difference between your chest and bust measurements. It’s always much easier to make a pattern larger than smaller.

(source: Threads Magazine)

Pattern Review: New Look 6567, view B

My official sewing assistant, Bean, the black cat shown below, looks absolutely aghast while laying out the pieces before cutting. It wasn’t until five days later after cutting and assembling the pattern that I realized why.

When fitting the pattern initially, I had chosen a measurement based on my full bust. Since the Big 4 write patterns for B cups, I should have used my high bust measurement and done an FBA. I didn’t realize this until after assembly, however. I cut a size 14 which was way too large. The fit in the upper shoulders and back was enormous, and led to gaping. The seams were huge as well. I had to trim down the side seams by a good 4 inches. Despite these ominous signs of disaster, I still kept plodding on, only to realize after assembly that I had cut the pattern that was much much too large. The sleeves were also much too large. The armholes themselves looked like cap sleeves on me (proof that it was still much much too large), so I decided to leave them out. The princess seams were also very bulky and lumpy, again, due to user error.

Since this is due to user error (and not the actual pattern), here is my review.

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Pattern Review: New Look 6567, view B

Pattern Description: Princess seam dress with sweetheart neckline.

Pattern Sizing: Size A, 6-16; European sizes 32-42. I cut a size 14 based on my full bust measurement which was incorrect. I should have cut a size 6 based on my high bust measurement, then done a princess seam FBA.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I glanced at most of the directions and did not find assembly too difficult. I serged the seams first, then assembled the parts according to the instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the princess seams and the sweetheart neckline.

Fabric Used:
Medium-weight cotton tweed in black. This fabric has a tiny bit of stretch, which was good, but it also picks up lint and everything else that isn’t nailed down. I had to keep the lint remover handy while fitting the dressform. Sewing assistant Bean also insisted on sitting on all of the cut pieces, accumulating tufts of Bombay cat fur everywhere. Next time I need to try this in a lighter-weight material.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I shortened the pattern at the waist and shortened the hem to knee-length based on measurements. Since I made a mistake in cutting a size too large, I had to take in the side seams immensely – about 4-5 inches. There was gaping by the shoulder due to poor torso fit (user error). In the future, I will also lower the neckline by an inch or so.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will sew this again with all the knowledge that I know now. Definitely cut based on high bust measurement, and do an FBA. And a wearable muslin beforehand will help.

Conclusion
This pattern is worth a try. Will re-evaluate pattern again in the future. Inadvertantly, this pattern taught me a lot: I learned how to make bias tape for binding the armholes (which became sleeve-caps), and I learned how to properly interface necklines.

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Obligatory First Post

I started teaching myself how to sew about 3 months ago. I had an old upright Singer circa 1940s that was bolted to a sewing cabinet, acquired from a garage sale. After a month or two of sewing (or learning how to sew), the power cord started to melt and my machine was promptly retired as a sewing table. I now have a Janome Hello Kitty green plastic machine, can do more than it seems.

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