My official sewing assistant, Bean, the black cat shown below, looks absolutely aghast while laying out the pieces before cutting. It wasn’t until five days later after cutting and assembling the pattern that I realized why.
When fitting the pattern initially, I had chosen a measurement based on my full bust. Since the Big 4 write patterns for B cups, I should have used my high bust measurement and done an FBA. I didn’t realize this until after assembly, however. I cut a size 14 which was way too large. The fit in the upper shoulders and back was enormous, and led to gaping. The seams were huge as well. I had to trim down the side seams by a good 4 inches. Despite these ominous signs of disaster, I still kept plodding on, only to realize after assembly that I had cut the pattern that was much much too large. The sleeves were also much too large. The armholes themselves looked like cap sleeves on me (proof that it was still much much too large), so I decided to leave them out. The princess seams were also very bulky and lumpy, again, due to user error.
Since this is due to user error (and not the actual pattern), here is my review.
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Pattern Review: New Look 6567, view B
Pattern Description: Princess seam dress with sweetheart neckline.
Pattern Sizing: Size A, 6-16; European sizes 32-42. I cut a size 14 based on my full bust measurement which was incorrect. I should have cut a size 6 based on my high bust measurement, then done a princess seam FBA.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I glanced at most of the directions and did not find assembly too difficult. I serged the seams first, then assembled the parts according to the instructions.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the princess seams and the sweetheart neckline.
Fabric Used:
Medium-weight cotton tweed in black. This fabric has a tiny bit of stretch, which was good, but it also picks up lint and everything else that isn’t nailed down. I had to keep the lint remover handy while fitting the dressform. Sewing assistant Bean also insisted on sitting on all of the cut pieces, accumulating tufts of Bombay cat fur everywhere. Next time I need to try this in a lighter-weight material.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I shortened the pattern at the waist and shortened the hem to knee-length based on measurements. Since I made a mistake in cutting a size too large, I had to take in the side seams immensely – about 4-5 inches. There was gaping by the shoulder due to poor torso fit (user error). In the future, I will also lower the neckline by an inch or so.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will sew this again with all the knowledge that I know now. Definitely cut based on high bust measurement, and do an FBA. And a wearable muslin beforehand will help.
Conclusion
This pattern is worth a try. Will re-evaluate pattern again in the future. Inadvertantly, this pattern taught me a lot: I learned how to make bias tape for binding the armholes (which became sleeve-caps), and I learned how to properly interface necklines.
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