Despite the lack of photographs, I am still sewing. Slowly. I am still on McCall’s 5094. The muslin (and the resulting bodice) was too large, so I had to re-draft.
What I’ve learned so far:
1. Always cut off the 5/8 seam allowances that the pattern companies give you.
2. Measure the pieces flat, and compare them to your measurements (without seam allowances).
3. Add in the seam allowance when cutting (1/2 an inch usually, 1 inch for the zipper or the center back.)
4. Make v notches in the center front.
5. Make lots of notches (snips) so you can match up the sides.
6. Don’t use large pins as they can leave holes in the fabric if you leave them on for a week or so.
7. When gathering, use two basting running stitches and leave them very close to each other. Pull only the bobbin thread and secure by putting a figure-8 around a pin. Always measure your gathers to make sure your pattern still fits!
8. Match up your seams. Especially princess seams.
9. Always make a muslin to adjust for fit after measuring the flat pattern pieces.
10. Mark the seam allowance on the edges of your pattern so when you’re cutting you know how much to add.
Hopefully I can have a post with more pictures soon.
I don’t understand why you would cut off the seam allowance only to add one back in when you cut. There is stuff going on on those allowances, like notches to match up pieces, etc. Makes no sense to me at all. Been sewing since a child and have made wedding dresses, plaid wool tailored suits, and other difficult stuff and tons of easy stuff through the many years including uniforms, clothes accessories, costumes, men’s clothes, and anything else you can think of. You normally sew your seam and then trim it appropriately and then finish it as desired.
I’ve always had a hard time with fitting, and since I measure patterns flat before I cut, I find that it’s easier (less taxing on the math) for me to remove all seam allowances, put the pieces together, and then measure it out. Also not all the seam allowances have to be the same with this method. I sometimes put in extra seam allowance for the zipper area if I think it might need adjusting in the future.
This is also just what I am used to. I always feel that with seam allowances added in I have to do a lot of re-calculating when adjusting patterns.