Simplicity Sewing Book, circa 1950s

Putting a Garment Together: Custom Method

Putting a Garment Together: Factory Method

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I recently got this Simplicity Sewing Book from the 1950s. There is a section on putting a dress together using the Custom Method vs. the Factory Method. In the Factory Method, fitting is only done at the side seams. The entire garment is worked flat until then. (See article transcribed below).

When making dresses, I read the instructions that come with each pattern and (for the most part) follow it. Having made a few dresses now, I usually work the bodice first, then the skirt. Fitting is done all around as I go along. This method best matches the Custom Method. Coming from knitting, where a project could easily take a few months, I haven’t noticed sewing to be particularly slow. It would be interesting to try the Factory Method vs. the Custom Method on the same project to see if it is any faster.

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Putting a Garment Together
Transcribed from Simplicity Sewing Book circa 1950s:

Custom Method: Good fit and finish are important ingredients to beautiful clothes.The custom method of putting a garment together should be used if you with the best possible results. This is the procedure: Word in units. Stay-stitch curved and shaped edges in direction of arrows. Do flat work, such as darts, bodice front and back, then sleeves. Press. Join bodice front and back leaving left under arm seam opening for placket as indicated. Make a row of machine basting at top of sleeve between notches. stitch sleeve seam. Baste seam in armhole easing in fullness between notches by drawing up one thread of machine basting. Do flat work such as darts in skirt front and back. Press. Join skirt seams stitching from the bottom up leaving left side seam open for placket as indicated. Baste bodice to skirt at waistline. If shoulder pads are called for, pin in place and fit garment. Make corrections if necessary. Complete stitching of seams. Finish neckline and placket. Press. Last, try dress on, mark length and finish hem.

Factory Method: Quick construction method is suggested where speed is more important than perfect fit. It is particularly useful for children’s clothes and housedresses. This is the procedure: Stay-stitch curved and shaped edges. Do flat work, such as darts in bodice front and back, skirt front and back. Join center front seam of bodice and join facing to bodice back. Join center front seam of skirt. Press seams open. Next make sleeves. Determine exact waist length. Join front bodice to front skirt. Join back bodice to back skirt. Join shoulder seams of bodice and facing. Press shoulder seams open. Turn facings inside. Add sleeves. The complete garment at this stage is still flat. Join underarm sleeve seams and side seams in one operation. Stitching from bottom up, leave left side seam open for placket as indicated. Fitting is done on side seams only. Press seams. Finish placket and put in hem.