Front view. This dress was finished the day before my birthday (today!), making it my Incidental Birthday Dress. I do need to make something ostentatious and appropriately flamboyant in the future that qualifies as a True Birthday Dress.

Alternate front view.

Front detail view.

Front detail view again.

Side view.

Awkward back view.

My Esteemed Sewing Assistant does not look particularly happy here.

Esteemed Sewing Assistant is looking at the camera, for once.

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Pattern used:

Simplicity 1576

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Simplicity 1576 Pattern Review

Pattern Review: Simplicity 1576, circa 1940s

Pattern Description: I didn’t see any on the pattern, so this is my description: Sleeveless sundress with gathered bodice and bolero.

Pattern Sizing: This was a 32 bust. The shoulders were a little big (and are still a little big). I made a muslin of the pattern as is and the muslin looked good enough to cut with minimal adjustments.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really liked the gathering across the bust. I really dislike using and making bias tape.

Fabric Used: Lightweight black and white small gingham.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:The original pattern had huge bows by the strap on the shoulder. I think I look silly in bows that huge on my shoulder, so I left them out.

I noticed that my patterns never match up properly along my upper back. It seems they are always too wide. When I cut the pattern, I gave a 1/2 inch seam allowance on the upper back, tapering to a one inch seam allowance at the waist. When I installed the zipper, I used a one inch seam allowance, basting the zipper in first. This seemed to work well enough. I used an invisible zipper and a four-gored skirt pattern from my yellow Anne Adams dress for the skirt. I took the shoulder seam in by one inch when I started the pattern. I took the shoulder seam in by another inch after attaching the bias tape edging (horrible, I know!) The shoulder still looks a little big but it’s wearable.

Back adjustment shown here.

This project started out well, then was promptly plagued by disasters. This was my second time making this bodice, since I cut into the first bodice with my serger by accident, trying to adjust the armhole. This was my first time making and sewing with bias tape for the edges. I don’t really like it. It was very time-consuming, and I had to use a rotary cutter and a mat to cut my strips perfectly on the bias. I joined the strips together on the diagonal, checking to make sure the seams were running in the same direction. Then after measuring the armhole and the neckline I just hoped that I had enough. It might have been my fabric, but the bias tape was very floppy and not stable at all. Perhaps I should have interfaced it?

I made sure to press the seams very carefully with this one. Instead of serging the seams together, I sewed the seams then serged each side so I could still press the seam flat. It makes a difference and those seams look more cohesive. I was lazy and did not do this with the skirt, and you can definitely see the vertical seam running across the middle of the skirt. Moving forward, I’ll treat my seams like this since it gives a cleaner finish.

I know I said earlier that I would be sewing in monochrome, but something about the grey in the dress just seems dull. I’ll work my way towards more jewel tones until I can find a good balance. Despite my complaints, I will probably wear this many times during the pre-Fall season, since grey goes with everything. This dress is also very photogenic, and comes off as more formal than a lightweight, gingham cotton dress should be.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, in a fabric that isn’t too flimsy. This fabric was very thin and I wanted to use up my stash. I didn’t line it and am wearing a cotton slip under the dress. I need to adjust the armhole properly as well, and create facings instead of bias tape.

Conclusion: I will definitely make more of these in the future.