Basic Top: First Finished Knit (sort of)

Top view. (Everything actually doesn’t look so bad until we get to the hem.)

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Neckline view.

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Inside view of neckline.

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Cuff view.

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I did end up finishing the basic top after all, just to get some practice on finishing it. Not too bad for my first haphazard knit project.

Pros:

It fits! With no muslins!
Really flattering
Really comfortable
Did not take long to make
Neckline doesn’t look that bad
Sleeves don’t look that bad

Cons:

The hem looks a hot mess, but not so bad when it’s worn
Neckline is still way too wide (pattern issues)

The neckline I added on based on Google tutorials and Renfrew instructions. It turned out mostly ok except for the wavy floppy parts.

The cuffs I folded over once and stitched down, straight stitch using a ballpoint needle.

The hemline I serged, then folded over once and stitched down, straight stitch using a ballpoint needle.

Does anyone have any advice on why my hem looks really wavy and how to fix it? When wearing it it actually doesn’t look that awful, but it looks really dodgy on Smurfette.

What I’ll do differently in the future:

Fix the pattern so it’s a standard t-shirt
Beg, borrow or steal a twin ballpoint needle
Pick a better knit that’s not see-through
Pick a more flattering color
Fix the hem (help?)

Comments

Anthea says:

April 25, 2012 at 10:25 am

Did the waves occur after using the serger or after stitching the hem?
I think it might be the DF (differential transport, I’m not sure if i translated it correctly) on your serger or the pressure of the foot on your sewing machine
Jane says:

April 25, 2012 at 12:46 pm

I had similar problems with a dress I made recently & was sent some lovely helpful hints by readers of my blog. I’ve pasted in the link here as they may help you too http://janessewandtell.wordpress.com/2012/03/14/accidental-dress/
Andrea says:

April 25, 2012 at 1:20 pm

If it became wavy while your serged, then you need to adjust the differential feed on your overlocker (which is just a dial on the side of mine) so that the fabric feeds evenly under the presser foot. It also helps to stabilize the hem before your press it up and stitch it. I suggest using Steam-a-Seam, which fuses the hem to the garment so that when you sew, the fabric will not stretch out.
Janice says:

April 25, 2012 at 1:44 pm

Thanks guys. It was fine when I serged it (nice and flat), but when I top-stitched it with my straight stitch it became very wavy. I think next time I’ll see if I can use a ballpoint twin needle, or experiment with a zig-zag stitch that has some stretch to it. Will also try stabilizing the hem using Steam-a-Seam.
Every Stitch says:

May 5, 2012 at 4:55 am

I’ve hd this problem with t shirt hems – I’m totally self taught so others may know off good reasons why this works, but I’ve found that angle-ing the side seam inwards at the bottom prevents this wavey hem. I’ve probably not explained this very well, but the bottom edge ends up a few cm shorter that the hem, so it has to stretch inside the hem, countering the waviness. Hope that makes sense
Elizabeth says:

May 6, 2012 at 4:24 pm

I never had much success with all the “tips” for good hems using sewing machines. That’s why I bought my coverstitch machine. Well worth the cost for the hems alone, but when you throw in how awesome it is at binding necklines, I am puddle of thankfulness. Definitely come over to check it out. I am available weds through friday this coming week.
Emily says:

May 30, 2012 at 8:57 am

I found that when sewing across the grain on my SM, rather than coverstitch, some fabrics stretched out regardless of the stitch used. Try reducing the presser foot pressure, definitely stilabilse the stitching line with wash away stabiliser (I used embroidery soluble) and most definitely use a twin needle or zigzag stitch with single needle, though the latter can look rather hand made depending on the fabric etc. Some fabrics worked fine and some didn’t.