Butterick 5824: Coat Muslins, Take 2

Only one side is adjusted. I pinned the collar back as best as I could to see how the muslin was doing.

Front.
Pink post-it side: adjusted

+ + +

Back.
Pink post-it side: adjusted

I’m wearing a medium weight winter cardigan that I wear all the time over my pajama scrubs.

+ + +

Adjustments I made:
+ Removed some fabric from the underarm
+ Removed some width from center back, tapering to nothing at the waistline

Adjustments I still need to make:
+ Lower bust dart apex slightly

I’ve been trying really hard to listen to my sewing intuition. It’s kind of hard to explain, but I have a little internal voice that tells me when a certain fabric is good for something (drape, color, texture) or when muslins fit right. I have the same voice that speaks up at work when I’ve designed things that “feel right”, or the opposite.

This is take two of coat muslins. I know the huge collar hides a multitude of sins, but I don’t want to make this unless absolutely everything feels right at the muslin stage.

I also had doubts about my fabric the day after I bought it. I’ve been on the fence about it and trying to ignore my sewing intuition, which told me I was forcing the fabric. I showed the fabric to my mom today (who is both my biggest critic and supporter), and without telling her my suspicions, she immediately said the weight was way too light for a coat, confirming my suspicions. She did suggest that it had good drape and would be good for some pants, which was what I also suspected. Even if we have a light winter, it still might be just way too light. This just means more fabric shopping if the muslin process works out.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the muslins?

11 thoughts on “Butterick 5824: Coat Muslins, Take 2

  1. Hi, I’m an older sewist, been sewing and costuming all my life. I would say, use a fabric much closer to a coat weight for this muslin. Go to Joann’s (assuming you are in the USA, sorry I didn’t check) and find something cheesy but heavier in their final markdown bin. Muslins don’t have to be made of muslin.
    I love keeping an eye on the creations of all you young folks!

  2. Thank you Cherry! That’s a good idea to use a heavier muslin. (I actually don’t feel that young but thank you for the compliment!)

  3. The adjusted side looks much butter than the non adjusted side. I do notice some pulling on the front right (your left) that’s creating wrinkles from the armpit angled down to your bellybutton… but maybe that’s because there aren’t any closures on the muslin at this point? It will probably be improved with the dart movement. Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress!

  4. The adjusted side does look better, but there is something going on with the sleeve that I can’t put my finger on. I agree that you should use a cheap fabric that is coat weight for your muslin to get a true sense of fit. And don’t take out all the ease from your coat. You want to have roominess for for lots of layers. If you remove the ease, your fit will be off whether you are wearing layers or not because of the coat weight material. Does that make sense?

  5. Oh, I’m so glad that you figured out that the fabric isn’t right before cutting into it. I hope you’re able to make the coat of your dreams!

  6. What fabric are you reconsidering? I’m graceamen on the coat sew along and making my 2nd muslin out of pillow/upholstery fabric I had on hand so it will be closer in weight to coat fabric. Waiting on fashion fabric in mail and hope I like it. I love your blog!!

  7. I’m still trying to fit my muslin, so am holding off on having a good muslin that fits before I commit to any coat fabric.

  8. Hmmm. I think I’m going to look at the finished measurements again, start from a smaller size? and possibly re-cut. Also getting a heavier fabric for muslin might be helpful.

  9. Pingback: Butterick 5824: Angry Samurai Face Muslin #3 | She's in Fashion

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