I got started on my coat pattern over the weekend. I’m only making a muslin of the top half, since I’m pretty sure the bottom half will work just fine. I’m most concerned about the kimono sleeve, which has potential to look baggy on me.
Sleeve, no adjustments.
I’m wearing a winter sweater underneath the coat to make sure the ease is enough. The sleeve looks ok but a bit baggy.
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Sleeve, with adjustments. I took up the extra baggy fabric on the underarm. Is this over fitting? I definitely like the sleeve that’s a bit more fitted.
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Sleeve, with adjustments. It looks just fine when my arm is down.
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Sleeves, both arms down.
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Left sleeve – adjusted.
Right sleeve – not adjusted.
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Back view.
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So the big question is, take out the ease from the kimono sleeve or not? I don’t think it feels too tight without the ease, and I definitely don’t want baggy underarms. Do you guys have any suggestions?
No suggestions here, sorry, but I look forward to see what other people have to say. Because actually this is also my issue/ doubts with kimono sleeves.
I’ve made a lot of adjustments and my second muslin since this time. I plan to share my adjustments in case it helps someone else who has the same issues as me.
I would add back in enough to provide you with room for movement & clothing worn underneath the coat. It’s a full vintage kimono sleeve look & it has the extra fabric to accomodate not having gussets.
As for the back it does look like it’s slightly too long for you. Have a go a moving the waistline up at the back tapering to nothing at the side seams – this may also require adjusting the dart size to fit as well. If you don’t want to add it back it, I would taper the sleeves in a little to the wrist to still give the silhouette of a kimono.
The front looks great, the only real change I would make is moving the end point of the bust dart down, as at the moment it finishes much higher than the apex of your natural bust.
I believe Gertie is about to do a sew-along next month if you can wait for that?
Thanks, Fleur. I’m wearing it with a winter sweater that I wear all the time. I don’t think it needs to be extremely fitted, but even the two RTW coats that I own are fitted enough, so I think I’m keeping the underarm adjustments just as a personal preference. I’ll look into changing the front dart apex though. I’m going to make a 2nd muslin that has more revisions, so hopefully it’ll work out.
I did read about Gertie’s sew-along, but I’m really bad with sew-alongs in general. I always feel like I’m rushing to finish everything.
I don’t have any experience with kimono sleeves, but this style is going to be fab on you! Have you chosen a fabric yet?
I hope so! Still trying to get the muslin fit correct. No I haven’t chosen a fabric yet, maybe after the muslins are done.
Oooh, good luck! The adjusted sleeve definitely looked better, clever you for remembering to wear Winter layers underneath when checking the fit! xx
Although kimono silhouettes are supposed to be loose (since it doesn’t have an armhole seam), I think you’re alteration looks perfect. Usually, you know what’s right and what alterations you need to make in order for you to wear it over and over again. Trust your gut.
I agree with the Fleur that the back looks as if it’s dipping down (vice versa – the front looks like it’s hiking) and that the bust darts are too high. But those are easy fixes
Good luck with your changes
I can’t believe we’re talking about fall again!
I think you should definitely take the excess out. I’ve only made one coat (the minoru) and the one place it needs more movement is when I cross my arms in front of me, so I guess between the shoulder blades? You should also join Gertie’s sewalong! Looking forward to the progress! http://www.flickr.com/groups/2124569@N22/
Thanks Christina, I definitely will join Gertie’s sew-along.