Category Archives: 1950s

The Secret Garden Skirt

Posted on by

Shirt: little hearts on black background, my mom’s
Skirt: homemade
Shoes: Born sandals
Accessories: faux bakelites
+ + +

Closeup.

+ + +

Closeup on bracelets. (And remote, since Esteemed Sewing Assistant can’t hold a camera yet.)

+ + +

Sitting down. Note the voluminous poofiness.

The Facts

Fabric: Teal seersucker with large roses and small roses, $5/yd, 2 yards

Pattern: Self-drafted (come on, it’s two rectangles!)
Year: 1950s inspired
Notions: one invisible zipper, teal, $1
Time to complete: 2 weekday evenings
First worn: I’ve worn this four times now
Wear again? Yes!
Total price: $11

This project is inspired by the children’s novel The Secret Garden. I read this book a long time ago, and I always loved the elements in it: romantic English garden, suspense, childhood exploring.

The fabric for this was originally intended to be the dress part of a Macaron. I bought this fabric during my lunch break at the garment district, so I was in a hurry to get back to work, however when I returned home I realized that the roses fall in a grid pattern: large red roses vertically, small pink roses horizontally. I draped it over my dressform to notice that the roses would look … very odd … when placed over the bodice area. I wadded up the fabric and threw it in the closet in disgust, then realized that it would make a good enough gathered skirt.

I’m trying to sew or wear all black, all the time, so this teal skirt was bit of an experiment for me. I didn’t think I’d like it so much. It’s easily the 50s equivalent of sweatpants, since it is that comfortable. The hips are free and it only fits at the waist. I must have measured wrong since the waist is a tad big. I’ve already worn this to work twice and to a picnic in Prospect Park once.

I also feel like a princess when I sit down, and I notice people on the subway scoot over if they think they’re about to sit on my very voluminous skirt.

All in all, a success! I’m not afraid of color anymore. It doesn’t mean I’m losing my edge or dressing like everyone else. It’s all about the styling. More color, more flowers, bring it on.

( cross-posted on Sew Weekly )

+ + +

Btw guys, I took your advice into account, changed the camera angle to head-on, and left my house to take photographs. It wasn’t as traumatizing as I thought. Does anyone have any ideas on how to check depth of field when you’re shooting alone? I usually focus on something then stand right in front of it, but sometimes I just want to stand in front of empty space.

Pattern Acquisition: Butterick 9427

Posted on by

+ + +

From the Vintage Pattern Wiki: Butterick 9427; ca. 1960; Misses’ Quick ‘N Easy Dress. Soft dress with bias cut bodice and skirt, shaped cowl collar continuing into a shoulder bow, self-belt. (A) Short sleeves cut in one with bodice. (B) Sleeveless.

I really like the sleek lines on this pattern, however I don’t know how I feel about the gathered (undefined?) skirt. I’ll have to take a closer look at the pattern, but I will probably change those to darts.

McCall’s 4994: Joan’s Pink and Purple Dress

Posted on by

Closeup view.

+ + +

The new season of Mad Men starts today. I finished this purple/pink dress based on Joan’s dress last week and only had time to post it now.

+ + +

Front view.

+ + +

Side view.

+ + +

Joan’s dress. (source: Tom & Lorenzo)

+ + +

Pattern used: McCall’s 4994.

+ + +

Construction notes:
I used the short sleeve version of McCall’s 4994. I drafted the yoke and the tie part out of pink georgette and the rest of the dress was made of violet crepe. I used an invisible zipper in the back. I also used seam binding on the collar area.

Pros:
+ it fits!
+ it sort of looks like Joan’s dress

Cons:
+ crepe was really hard to work with
+ it’s a little bunchy?

This dress turned out better than I thought. I’ll definitely make more versions of McCall’s 4994.

Pattern Acquisition: McCall’s 4822

Posted on by

McCall’s 4822.

+ + +

I’ve been stalking this pattern for a few months now on Etsy, and always hesitating when I press the “buy now” button since I’ve been trying to keep within my monthly sewing budget. However when I saw it somewhere else for a more reasonable price, I finally gave in.

I really like this pattern since can be the foundation for many SWAPs yet to come, and I’ve been really into sewing separates lately. Since I won my three-month skirmish with Clover, I’m no longer afraid of sewing pants. I find that they get worn more often and are more versatile wardrobe-wise. Paired with a self-drafted gathered or circle skirt, this pattern can even be a an appropriate 50s-era dress, or a blouse and skirt faux dress combination.

I’ve been trying to re-use most of my sewing patterns. This is partly so I can focus on getting the fit properly the first time and then get maximum use of it the next x amount of times I decide to make it again and again. I also like the challenge of coming up with something unique looking based on one pattern. It’s impressive to see how much variation can come out of different collars, cuffs, buttons or even colors and weights of fabrics.

This brings to mind my next question: when you start delving into pattern drafting, how many patterns do you really need? Is making the same pattern over and over again (with minor variations) cheating?

McCall’s 4994: Adjustments

Posted on by

As much as I like Sew Weekly and how it’s definitely forced me to think in unexpected and creative ways, I think I need more than a week (or three days, in this case) to work on a project.

Thanks Elizabeth for your comment on McCall’s 4994. I took a closer look at McCall’s 4994 today and it definitely needed a sleeve adjustment. I didn’t want something that would just sit in my closet and I would only wear once because the sleeves were awkward and bordering on the 80s instead of the 50s.

This method is pretty imprecise but since the edges were all serged and finished, I figured I might as well give it a shot. I put the dress on the dressform and pinched out the extra ease on the bottom armscye.

I pinched out about two inches from the bottom corner to the where the seam should be. I continued the adjustment line tapering to nothing about four inches above the elbow line, and tapering to nothing by the side of the waist.

These are dodgy bathroom shots to see how they fit. I might have to photograph this properly again for posterity’s sake (and so I can remember to make this adjustment on the pattern piece).

With the sleeve down, trying to stand straight. It’s still bunchy but what can I do about it now? I think maybe my adjustment is pulling something off grain. Eh.

+ + +

With the sleeve up. (No more weird bunchy fabric that goes through the shoulder.)

+ + +

Is this cheating if you make the adjustments after you’ve declared a finished project, then photograph it again afterwards? I’d rather have something I’d wear and isn’t so horribly flawed, so perhaps it doesn’t matter.

McCall’s 4994: The Joan Holloway Inspired Anti-Valentine’s Day Dress

Posted on by

Front view.

+ + +

Front view, #2.

+ + +

I found this Trifari brooch at the thrift store down the street. This is one of my favorite brooches that seems to go with everything.

+ + +

Pattern used.

+ + +

I’ve been watching a lot of Mad Men lately, which has definitely inspired styling some outfits and a lot of what I’ve been sewing. I finished this last week for the Sew Weekly challenge and only had a chance to post about it now here.

The Facts

Fabric: Tropical wool, $12/yd, 60″
Pattern: McCall’s 4994
Year: 1959
Notions: Invisible zipper, $1
Time to complete: 20+ hours. I made a muslin of the bodice first, but after that maybe 8 hours.
First worn: I haven’t worn this yet.
Wear again? If I can get over the weird sleeves, yes.
Total price: $37

I greatly dislike Valentine’s Day, but anything for Sew Weekly.

I had some five yards of red tropical wool that was languishing in my closet since my failed Lady Grey sew-along, so I decided to make McCall’s 4994 in red. I made a muslin of the bodice first. I lowered the neckline about one inch and adjusted the waist.

The sleeves are my least favorite part about this project. They look strangely bunchy and I didn’t tweak the sleeves because I didn’t want to sacrifice mobility.

I got over all of my insecurities and wore it to work last week. I got some comments that it was “very Jackie O” so I suppose it’s a reluctant success.

Edit: After further perfectionist reflection, I’m going to have to fix those bunchy sleeves. Ugh.

+ + +

Pattern review:

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Probably. I didn’t read the instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the kimono sleeves.

Fabric used: Tropical wool that I’ve been hoarding for the failed Lady Grey sew along

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The top could stand to be more fitted. The sleeves are really bunchy and actually bother me a lot.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I’ll be making this again at least one more time (maybe more once I perfect the fit). It came together very easily and would do just fine if the sleeves were adjusted.

Spring/Summer 2012 SWAP: Revised

Posted on by

Spring 2012 SWAP:
4 bottoms – 2 pants, 2 skirts
4 tops – 4 blouses
1 dress

Since most of my blue twill is suddenly gone (more on that later), I decided to revise my Spring/Summer choices. I also included more versatile bases like high-waisted pants in denim and a more plain skirt. I included Simplicity 1554 a few times since I only have 2 yards of the cotton voile each (and maybe less for the polka-dot rayon) and wanted to make the best of it.

Outfit: Simplicity 1554, styled

Posted on by

Front view #1.

+ + +

Front view #2.

+ + +

Closeup of bracelets: lucite root beer colored bracelet with glitter, black faux bakelite.

+ + +

Closeup of brooch. I take all my pictures myself so sometimes there are erratic angles.

+ + +

Blouse: Simplicity 1554, homemade
Cardigan: H&M
Pants: Hand me down from my mom
Bracelets: Faux lucite and faux bakelite
Shoes: Penny loafers, Hush Puppies
Brooch: Brown thermoset flower brooch, ebay

I’ve been making more of an effort to wear my projects this year and the ones that get the most wear are the blouses. I’ve also wanted to document more of what I wear from a day to day basis to keep track of the projects that I do wear.

It might be the erratic, freezing cold days we’ve been having but lately I’ve been really drawn to casual wear from the 50s (straight cut plain slacks) combined with 40s elements (brooches, lucite bracelets). I walk to and from work so whatever I have to be wearing has to be practical. I’m also allergic to nickel and can’t wear most jewelry that isn’t real. We’re also not allowed to wear jewelry on the mat so I’m constantly taking off my jewelry before going to class (jiu jitsu), and I’d like something I wouldn’t have to worry about losing if I put it in my wallet: hence large lucite bracelets and brooches.

That reminds me: I need to sew more pants.