The Formal Masquerade Dress: Simplicity 8155

We had a work event last week that called for “black tie formal masquerade” and I didn’t have anything to wear.

Pattern used:
Simplicity 4774.

Notes:
I made this dress in about a week, finishing at the eleventh hour at 1 am the night before the event. I made a bodice of the top and used a dirndl skirt for the bottom since I didn’t want to cut into the lace border pattern. I underlined the silver lace with flesh-colored fabric, and it turned out better than I thought.

I’m fine with a dirndl silhouette, as long as there is a belt to hide all the gathering by the waistband. I plan to make this pattern again, making some modifications to the bodice (which is a little too long) and doing the gathering by machine instead of by hand, so it’s more even.

Decisions, decisions

Simplicity 4774.

There’s a semi-formal (what exactly does this dress code mean for women?) work event coming up that I need to sew for. Trying to decide on whether to go for the silver textured brocade or nude lace. I have a little under two weeks to finish this. My colleague who sits next to me said something like, “Have you seen Project Runway? They finish everything in a day.” So we’ll this. This is supposed to be a masked (?) semi-formal event too so we’ll see how it goes.

Silver (it looks brown here but it is silver) textured brocade. I’ve been hoarding this fabric for over 3 years, easily.

Nude lace with silver embroidery. Closeup of hem.

Cigarette Pants, Self-Drafted

Front view, #1.

Sweater: thrifted
Pants: self-drafted, homemade
Blouse: Daffy’s, from many years ago,
Necklace: homemade
Leopard platform stilettos: thrifted

Front view, #2.

Front view, #3.

Side view.

Closeup view.

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These pants were inspired by Midge Daniels. After my pants-fitting debacle a few weeks ago, I finally decided to draft my own.

Fabric used: medium-weight cotton sateen, with 1% stretch

Construction notes: I used my skirt sloper to draft these pants. I drafted these to sit at the natural waist with no ease and used fabric with 1% stretch. I made my muslin with stretch fabric and made my final version with cotton sateen. I used an invisible zipper on the side.

Beta-testing notes: I’ve already worn these pants out and about and they’re very comfy. Will definitely make again, either in more cotton sateen or brushed wool corduroy.

Parade of Pant Muslins, Part 2

Pants drafting.

I know I said I’d use my last franken-pattern as a base, but I still didn’t have enough confidence in it to cut into my stretch good black brushed wool corduroy or my cotton sateen. I had such a hard time with Clover that I thought I would just draft my own pants.

Since I was going to be using a stretch fabric, I drafted these to my measurements with no ease. I used a white fabric with similar stretch properties as my muslin. I think this is my most successful pants muslin yet.

Front view.

Side view.

Almost back view.

Sitting view.

Edit: I actually finished these pants using cotton sateen and tested the live version yesterday and it held up pretty well. More photos to come.

Simplicity 3000, 1960s Cheongsam: The Dress With Many Technical Problems

Front view.

Side view.

Closeup view.

Closeup of frog closure.

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Pattern used: Simplicity 3000, circa 1960s

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Pattern: Simplicity 3000, circa 1960s

Pattern Sizing: Bust 35 1/2, half size. (Pointless since I had to size the bodice by using my bodice block.)

Description: 1960s cheongsam.

Did it look like the pattern envelope when you were done sewing it? Yes.

Fabric: Red and gold brocade for the body.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I read the directions, then disregarded them since they didn’t make any sense to me.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like the frog closures.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? Yes!

Sizing issues: Firstly, the pattern I bought was too big for me. I had to make so many changes to the bodice that I just ended up taking my bodice block, transferring the front pieces to it and fitting it that way. I forgot to take into account the sleeves (now too big) and the collar (also too big), so I had to omit them in the end. I wish it had sleeves, but the omitted collar worked out well since the body pieces already have a high neckline. I used an invisible zipper for the center back.

New techniques learned: This was my first time doing piping. I put piping on the sleeveless seam parts and on the frog closure parts. I did not have a proper piping foot, so I was using my invisible zipper foot, which was a pain. The piped pieces would get stuck in the invisible zipper foot’s teeth. Then I found my non-invisible zipper foot and used that, and it worked out better.

Other notes: The brocade was really slippery and very hard to work with. I serged the seams whenever I had a chance to, since by touching it it would just fray.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don’t know if I need another cheongsam dress, so no. I would recommend it to others though.

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Unrelated note: My hair is finally long enough to set and look remotely vintage, but I miss my hair. Hair always grows so slowly when you’re waiting.