Actual Sewing Content

Keeping it classy with canned corn pattern weights. #sewing

After procrastinating for many many weeks, I finally had a chance to trace and pin the Colette Violet pattern. I’m on the fence about pinning. Sometimes I think it leads to accurate cutting, sometimes I think it makes the fabric bunch up and I like to keep it as flat as possible. I’m using a striped grey cotton from my stash.

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Esteemed Sewing Assistant turned Pirate Cat. #sewing #cats #catsofinstagram #cat #sphynx #sphynxofinstagram

Esteemed Sewing Assistant in Training, trying to be a Pirate Cat.

What you don’t see are hours spent saying, “No, don’t sit on that!” — everything from the fabric, the ironed out patterns, the pattern on the fabric, to “No don’t play with the pin cushion!” until Esteemed Sewing Assistant in Training fell asleep.

More to come soon.

What I Wore Today: Sencha’s Last Stand

Front view 1, awkward pose.

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Side view 1, possibly bad ass pose.

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Blouse: Sencha, handmade fail
Pants: jeans, hand me down from my mom
Shoes: thrifted

When I’m too lazy to set my hair the night before, I default to some kind of classic look.

I’m on the verge of retiring this Sencha, and now I know why.

I made this a year or so ago out of polyester charmeuse. I was still new to sewing then and didn’t realize that quality fabrics were not polyester. Today it’s 80 degrees and very humid outside, and the material was not helping.

As for modifications, I cut the neckline a lot lower and made covered buttons. I finished the sides with French seams and learned how to work with a very slippery fabric. I also raised the darts by a good inch or so.

This version also needs about four inches added to the length. To remedy this I put a black chiffon top underneath it so I wouldn’t be tugging at it all day long.

I wore this to work today and I was mostly fine, until I had a meeting with our other devs and I was really self-conscious. It also rides up a lot because it’s so short.

Verdict: Definite Sencha fail. Definite charity donation.

The Rose Print Blouse: Simplicity 1554

Still not sure how flattering rolls are with my thick hair, but this will have to do for now. I think I’ve finally gotten over my vintage fashion-rebellion and am going back to what I’ve been sewing before. I’m slowly getting over my fear of color as well, but so far have been sticking to dark background prints, red, and black.

I finally this blouse a week or so ago and only had a chance to write about it now. Shown here with Wearing History shorts, I think it’s very versatile and should hopefully work long past Summer and straight into Fall.

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Fabric: Rayon, $7/yd, 2 yards
Pattern: Simplicity 1554
Year: 1945
Notions: black plastic buttons, $1
Time to complete: one week, working on it mostly on evenings
First worn: Hasn’t been worn yet!
Wear again? Yes
Total price: $15

Pattern used:

Simplicity 1554. I made View C, with the peter pan collar.

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I’ve made this before, but only once in View C. It’s hard to see the collar there under all that hair, but it’s there! I used rose print rayon that felt very 40s to me. It was a dream to sew and has great drape.

This is one of my favorite patterns since it can look different with very few pieces and I’d like to make it View D, the only one I haven’t made yet.

Oh. I know I said “no more vintage patterns”, but I should probably be more careful of absolutes from now on. Vintage patterns are definitely back.

What I’m Working on This Week: Simplicity 1554

I started on Simplicity 1554 this week. I’ve made this three times before, but it’s really only been wearable the past two versions. I still haven’t made all the views, but it’s so versatile that I really plan to before the year is out.

I know I said no granny floral print, but I couldn’t resist this rayon fabric I found over the weekend. Since it’s black, red, and the floral print isn’t too small, I hope it doesn’t come off as super granny.

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In the meanwhile, I’ve been watching a lot of old movies. Why did I only discover Elizabeth Taylor now? She’s awesome, and of course my favorite vintage style role models (other than Marilyn) are all brunettes.

Basic Top: First Finished Knit (sort of)

Top view. (Everything actually doesn’t look so bad until we get to the hem.)

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Neckline view.

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Inside view of neckline.

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Cuff view.

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I did end up finishing the basic top after all, just to get some practice on finishing it. Not too bad for my first haphazard knit project.

Pros:

  • It fits! With no muslins!
  • Really flattering
  • Really comfortable
  • Did not take long to make
  • Neckline doesn’t look that bad
  • Sleeves don’t look that bad

Cons:

  • The hem looks a hot mess, but not so bad when it’s worn
  • Neckline is still way too wide (pattern issues)

The neckline I added on based on Google tutorials and Renfrew instructions. It turned out mostly ok except for the wavy floppy parts.

The cuffs I folded over once and stitched down, straight stitch using a ballpoint needle.

The hemline I serged, then folded over once and stitched down, straight stitch using a ballpoint needle.

Does anyone have any advice on why my hem looks really wavy and how to fix it? When wearing it it actually doesn’t look that awful, but it looks really dodgy on Smurfette.

What I’ll do differently in the future:

  • Fix the pattern so it’s a standard t-shirt
  • Beg, borrow or steal a twin ballpoint needle
  • Pick a better knit that’s not see-through
  • Pick a more flattering color
  • Fix the hem (help?)

Conquering my Fear of Sewing with Knits

Look! Smurfette (my dressform) is wearing a knit. And it looks flattering on her! Those are my serger threads that haven’t been snipped yet hanging from the sleeves.

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I used View B. It looks nothing like the pattern because I made some alterations already.

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I decided to use McCall’s 6556 in view B with no pocket, since it was simple and had two pieces. I cut an extra small and still thought it was way too large, so I raised the armhole by three inches and lowered the neckline.

Pros:

  • No making muslins
  • Serged the seams
  • Faster to sew than wovens, took about two hours from cutting to here
  • Very flattering
  • Very comfortable

Cons:

  • Color is not very flattering
  • Jersey I picked is too thin (a little transparent)
  • Arms too tight (convert into a t-shirt?)
  • Sits too low on the shoulder

The pattern had 5/8 seam allowance built into it, and trying to gauge a 5/8 seam allowance on the serger was way too difficult. I didn’t envision this as being my muslin, but the color isn’t very flattering and the arms are a little too tight (but not ugly-looking). The jersey is also very translucent (which can be remedied by layering). I’m on the fence about finishing it as a project, but since it took so little time to make and I need the practice on finishing the neckline, I might finish it and make the best of it.

My goal is to replicate one of my favorite knit t-shirts. This version is close but I need to make some modifications (with different jersey) so it can be even closer.

Peter Pan Collar Sorbetto

Front view.

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Side view.

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Front view #2.

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Closeup of brooch.

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I finished this Sorbetto a few weeks ago and only had a chance to post about it now. I used some leftover swiss dot, lined it with cotton batiste, and serged the seams. I also added sleeves and a peter pan collar. My pattern review is below.

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Colette Sorbetto Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Sleeveless top with center pleat

Pattern Sizing:
0-18. I cut a straight size 2 but cut a size 4 in the armholes.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Well not really because I removed the pleat.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I didn’t read the instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked that it’s quick and makes good use of remnants.

Fabric Used:
Swiss dot.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I serged the seams. I also added sleeves and a peter pan collar.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes I’m definitely making more Sorbettos. This is my second one.

Conclusion:
I’m way behind on the Sorbetto craze, but I love making Sorbettos.