Butterick 5824: Angry Samurai Face Muslin #3

All muslins look great on my dressform.

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I have no shame with posting poor photos of myself with no makeup on and unflattering hair for the sake of fitting a coat.

This is my third muslin for the Gertie coat. I looked at the flat pattern measurements and decided to cut a size 8, since the last two muslins looked way too baggy.

Adjustments:
+ cut a standard size 8
+ lowered the bust dart by half an inch

I totally messed up the back collar. I think I have to change the back dart since there was way too much fabric by the upper back, and I just had to pinch it out. Has anyone had this issue with the Gertie coat?

I think it looks better compared to the other two. The underarm poofiness is totally gone, and there’s still plenty of ease for me to move my arms with a sweater underneath it.

What do you guys think?

Butterick 5824: Coat Muslins, Take 2

Only one side is adjusted. I pinned the collar back as best as I could to see how the muslin was doing.

Front.
Pink post-it side: adjusted

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Back.
Pink post-it side: adjusted

I’m wearing a medium weight winter cardigan that I wear all the time over my pajama scrubs.

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Adjustments I made:
+ Removed some fabric from the underarm
+ Removed some width from center back, tapering to nothing at the waistline

Adjustments I still need to make:
+ Lower bust dart apex slightly

I’ve been trying really hard to listen to my sewing intuition. It’s kind of hard to explain, but I have a little internal voice that tells me when a certain fabric is good for something (drape, color, texture) or when muslins fit right. I have the same voice that speaks up at work when I’ve designed things that “feel right”, or the opposite.

This is take two of coat muslins. I know the huge collar hides a multitude of sins, but I don’t want to make this unless absolutely everything feels right at the muslin stage.

I also had doubts about my fabric the day after I bought it. I’ve been on the fence about it and trying to ignore my sewing intuition, which told me I was forcing the fabric. I showed the fabric to my mom today (who is both my biggest critic and supporter), and without telling her my suspicions, she immediately said the weight was way too light for a coat, confirming my suspicions. She did suggest that it had good drape and would be good for some pants, which was what I also suspected. Even if we have a light winter, it still might be just way too light. This just means more fabric shopping if the muslin process works out.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the muslins?

Butterick 5824: Gratuitous Coat Muslins with Bad Hair

I got started on my coat pattern over the weekend. I’m only making a muslin of the top half, since I’m pretty sure the bottom half will work just fine. I’m most concerned about the kimono sleeve, which has potential to look baggy on me.

Sleeve, no adjustments.

I’m wearing a winter sweater underneath the coat to make sure the ease is enough. The sleeve looks ok but a bit baggy.

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Sleeve, with adjustments. I took up the extra baggy fabric on the underarm. Is this over fitting? I definitely like the sleeve that’s a bit more fitted.

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Sleeve, with adjustments. It looks just fine when my arm is down.

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Sleeves, both arms down.

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Left sleeve – adjusted.
Right sleeve – not adjusted.

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Back view.

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So the big question is, take out the ease from the kimono sleeve or not? I don’t think it feels too tight without the ease, and I definitely don’t want baggy underarms. Do you guys have any suggestions?

What I’m Working on This Week

Butterick 5824, Advance 4518.

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I’ve decided to try my first coat pattern, Gertie’s coat. I’ve been looking for a knee length princess coat for awhile now, and haven’t found any yet. Hopefully if I start now I can finish it in time for winter.

I usually only do one project at a time, but since a coat might be at time-consuming project, I also want to start on Advance 4518.

Finished project: Butterick 6287

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Dress: homemade
Shoes: Cork wedges, thrifted

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I finished this 1970s Stevie Nicks inspired dress over the weekend. My pattern review is below.

Pattern used:

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Pattern: Butterick 6287, circa 1970s

Pattern Sizing: Bust 32, size 9

Description: Junior and Misses dress. Semi-fitted V-neckline high-waisted dress, has flared skirt two inches above knee or three inches above ankle, flutter sleeves and front brad trim at neckline and double wrap tie braid belt.

Did it look like the pattern envelope when you were done sewing it? Yes, but I made adjustments.

Fabric: Lightweight cotton with a good drape.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn’t read the instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? My favorite part is the flutter sleeves.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? I left out the braid along the neckline and the braided belt. I also omitted the zipper at the back. This dress isn’t as fitted as I normally make things since there is no zipper anywhere, but it fits over my head just fine.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, I would not sew it again just because I don’t think I need two 1970s style dresses in my closet. I will recommend it to others.

Sewing/Style Inspiration: Stevie Nicks

I’ve been listening to Fleetwood Mac’s Rumours non-stop lately, and though late 1970s is barely considered vintage, I’ve always been inspired to dress like my rock star idols.

Stevie Nicks is the frontwoman of Fleetwood Mac. She pioneered a unique gypsy-luxe bohemian look: long fluid chiffon skirts, airy capes, shawls, platform boots and lots of black.

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Stevie Nicks performing on stage, late 1970s. Note the beaded black lace shawl with a classic cotton tank top.

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Stevie Nicks in the early 1980s, wearing a white fringed shawl, low-cut dress with a ruffle, and high-heeled boots.

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Fleetwood Mac in the late 1970s. Stevie in the center wearing a black chiffon dress and a top hat.

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Stevie is on the bottom right wearing a lace blouse and an ethnic print handkerchief skirt (or dress?).

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Wearing a white lace shawl and a black dress.

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This photograph isn’t really a good example of her personal style since you can barely see what she’s wearing, but I love the rock and roll vibe of this shot.

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“I was very influenced by Janis Joplin,” Stevie said during a recent interview*, “the one time I saw Janis in person, and all the times I saw her on television with her feathers and her bell-bottomed pants and her beautiful silky blouse tops.” Stevie travelled to San Francisco to the Velvet Underground in at attempt to re-create her look. “It was a tiny little store, but it had the most beautiful things,” Nicks recalls. “Tunic tops that came down to your mid-thigh, and evening gown, old-lady nightgown material bell-bottoms that weren’t really wide, but instead fell straight over a really high boot.It was in that room where I thought ‘Wow! These are the kind of clothes I’m going to wear forever.’”

My new sewing motto from now on is: sew clothes that I’m going to wear forever.

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This leads me to my next sewing project, Butterick 6287 from the late 1970s:

b6287

I don’t have any fabric for this yet, but I’ll probably modify the hem so it has an asymmetrical hem or a handkerchief skirt.

* (interview source: LA Times, 10/23/97, Airy Godmother)

Butterick 5559: A Modern Pattern

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Butterick 5559, circa — well, last year.

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I still love vintage patterns but once in awhile I go off the deep end and buy a modern pattern. Enter Butterick 5559. I might be late to the party, since this has been featured in many blogs since here, but somehow I stumbled upon it while trying to practice self-restraint while browsing through the new Butterick retro patterns.

When I started sewing, I went through a period of six months or more in which everything I made was way too big. I used patterns from the Big 4: Simplicity, McCall’s, and despite reading the chart measurements on the side of the envelope everything was just way too big. I transitioned into sewing with vintage patterns and perhaps it was due to time and technique, but suddenly I was sewing things that fit.

I’ve never sewn with knits before and I’m sure Butterick 5559 is no place to start, but I’m supposed to be stretching my sewing wings this year. And I absolutely haven’t lost my mind entirely. I did end up getting Butterick 5603 for good measure.

Recent Acquisition: Lot of 1950s Patterns

I also recently acquired this lot of 1950s patterns. I usually stay away from 1950s patterns since I think the full skirts look overwhelming on me, but these are all slim/pencil skirts. With these patterns, there will be definitely more 1950s styles here in the future.

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Butterick 7855

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Pattern description: Butterick 7855; ca. 1956; Casual Coordinates. Blouse & skirt coordinates. (A) Below-elbow sleeved blouse has neckline band & tab matching the hip-pocketed skirt with deep, inverted front pleat. (B) Pocket trim matches neckline. (C) Short, puff sleeved blouse with Peter Pan collar.

I like the blouse and skirt option, and I like the contrasting neckline tab on the blouse.

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Butterick 6725

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Pattern description: Butterick 6725 Sheath Dress and Nip-Waisted Jacket. The slim scoop-necked sheath adds a nip-waisted jacket and really “goes places”. Dress has cut-in-one cropped sleeves and a wand-slim skirt. Jacket sports a perky collar, slit cuffs. Cuff and collar facings are in contrast.

I like the contrast option on the jacket and the cut of the jacket itself.

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Butterick 7425

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Pattern description: Butterick 7425 1955 Slim Basic Dress that goes everywhere. With eye catching detail on arms and pockets. (A) Below elbow sleeves. (B) Short sleeved version.

I like the interesting sleeve detail and the 3/4 length sleeves. I wonder how difficult it would be to set in those type of sleeves.

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Butterick 7548

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Pattern description: Kick it up a notch! Slim dress with a keyhole neckline! The skirt is released with four kick pleats at sides, in front and back.

I like the keyhole neckline and the kick pleats in the skirt.

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Butterick 7383

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Pattern description: Butterick 7383; ca. 1955; Sheath and Jacket Twosome. Scoop-necked, shoulder capping sheath takes a companion jacket with a stand-up collar and below-elbow sleeves faced with contrast. Fitted with a button closing at the waist.

I like the scoop neck of the dress and the jacket that goes with it.