Category Archives: finished project

Simplicity 1578, circa 1945: The Summery Polka-Dot Sundress

Posted on by
9

Front view #1.

+ + +

Front view #2.

+ + +

Front view #3.

+ + +

Closeup view: lucite bracelet and faux bakelite black bracelet. (The bruise is probably from getting beaten up at jiu jitsu.)

+ + +

The Facts

Fabric: Navy and white polka-dot rayon, $5/yd 60″ wide
Pattern: Simplicity 1578
Year: 1945
Notions: Navy invisible zipper, $1
Time to complete: 16 hours, maybe more
First worn: Never been worn yet!
Wear again? Yes
Total price: $11

Pattern used:

It’s the middle of winter here and since every week has been 30 degrees and freezing. It’s refreshing to work on a summery rayon polka-dot sundress.

I’ve made this pattern once before unsuccessfully. This time around was different.

Construction details:

  • made a muslin (which accounted for the 16+ hours)
  • basted all the seams before sewing it up
  • inserted an invisible zipper in the back
  • used seam bindings for the armholes
  • serged the seams
  • used some leftover navy gabardine for the neckline facing
  • hand-tacked the facing at center front to prevent it from flipping up

Using a fabric with good drape and hand was crucial. The rayon is lightweight and has good drape. This pattern also reminds me why the 40s is my favorite sewing era. I have enough leftover fabric for a skirt, a blouse or shorts and the silhouette is vintage enough to be authentic yet doesn’t look costume-like or overwhelming.

I don’t know how many sleeveless sundresses I’ll be making but this silhouette is definitely a win.

(Cross-posted on Sew Weekly.)

The Fashion Week Skirt

Posted on by
Reply

+ + +

The Facts

Fabric: Faux leather
Pattern: self-drafted
Year: 2011
Notions: black invisible zipper
Time to complete: 3 hours
First worn: New York Fashion Week, last Fall
Wear again: Yes
Total price: around $10

This skirt was inspired by two accessories: these leather studded platform boots and these two leather cuffs, worn stacked together. I picked up the chunky leather cuff with silver studs at a now closed-down accessory place on St. Mark’s Place. The other bracelet wraps twice around the wrist and has gold studs, and was a gift from one of my best friends last Christmas.

Way before I got into vintage, I’ve been very much inspired by the music I listen to: glam rock and classic rock and roll. The whole look consists of leather, loads of black eyeliner, tights, unset hair, tattoos, and tons of attitude.

I drafted the pattern myself based on my bodice block. This is my first time working with faux leather, and it went along smoother than I thought it would. I did make the fatal beginner mistake of pressing down my seams with a hot iron, which absolutely melted the fabric so I had to re-cut one of the pieces again. I pressed the pieces down with a cold iron the next time around and it worked out well.

This skirt is very comfortable and it survived my second day of Fashion Week last year. Since then I’ve worn it several times (including to work). It’s a nod to the East Village, riding the L train late at night, listening to Bowie on your headphones while cutting fabric at 2 am, seeing your first runway show at Fashion Week, and evokes the energy that surrounds the city I live in.

(cross-posted to Sew Weekly.)

Colette Patterns Jasmine

Posted on by
5
Blouse: Colette Patterns Jasmine, front view #1
Pants: Cigarette pants, self-drafted
Colette Patterns Jasmine, front view #2

+ + +

Informal Pattern Review

I love this pattern. The trickiest thing about Jasmine was cutting the front on the bias. Maybe it was using cotton voile that had way too much drape, but the front pieces were hard to work with. I love how the blouse has no closure, no fiddly buttons or invisible zippers. I used seam binding on the collar instead of the facings (which never stay flat for me) and I interfaced the cuffs for extra stability.

+ + +

I miss dressing in vintage. Lately my rock and roll side has been winning out (perhaps if I sew or ever make anything in that style I’ll talk about it here), but vintage hasn’t been far from my mind.

Cigarette Pants, Self-Drafted

Posted on by
6

Front view, #1.

Sweater: thrifted
Pants: self-drafted, homemade
Blouse: Daffy’s, from many years ago,
Necklace: homemade
Leopard platform stilettos: thrifted

Front view, #2.

Front view, #3.

Side view.

Closeup view.

+ + +

These pants were inspired by Midge Daniels. After my pants-fitting debacle a few weeks ago, I finally decided to draft my own.

Fabric used: medium-weight cotton sateen, with 1% stretch

Construction notes: I used my skirt sloper to draft these pants. I drafted these to sit at the natural waist with no ease and used fabric with 1% stretch. I made my muslin with stretch fabric and made my final version with cotton sateen. I used an invisible zipper on the side.

Beta-testing notes: I’ve already worn these pants out and about and they’re very comfy. Will definitely make again, either in more cotton sateen or brushed wool corduroy.

Wool Pencil Skirt, self-drafted

Posted on by
1

Skirt: basic pencil skirt, self-drafted
Blouse: Sencha with modified neckline, self-made
Accessories: Bracelet, faux confetti lucite
Shoes: ?

Channeling my best Elizabeth Taylor.

I set my hair a little differently than usual so it’s super poofy (and more 50s-seeming) here.

Back vent detail. Skirt wrinkles easily apparently.

Lining/basic construction shot.

Hand-stitching by the zipper area.

Closeup of faux confetti lucite bracelet.

I drafted this pencil skirt out of my bodice block. I definitely don’t have enough winter skirts and wanted to make some basic pieces. This one was made from men’s suiting and lined with polyester/cotton.

This was a really boring project to make. The pieces were so simple and brown is not really a very alluring color to look at, but it’s a good neutral and it will probably get a lot of use this winter. I also did a lot more hand-sewing than usual and is my first try at fully lining a skirt.

Techniques learned:
- drafting a pencil skirt from your sloper
- drafting a lining based on the skirt pattern
- drafted a back vent instead of a slit
- importance of slow sewing (lots of hand-sewing, fully-lined)

Project notes: This was my first project at lining a skirt entirely. I stitched the lining by the zipper area by hand, but I want to find a better way to attach the lining. I will probably finish the entire lining entirely by machine next time. I used French seams on lining hem and drafted the lining pieces based off of the skirt piece.

I pegged the bottom and though I made two muslins before starting, the skirt was still way too large (probably from working with wool?) when I was done.

I originally did a blind hem stitch by machine at the bottom, then realized the blind hem wasn’t so invisible and took it apart and hand-stitched the hem. I used a brown invisible zipper that I had in the back of my closet.

I also noticed that this version of Sencha is comfortable and goes with everything, but I rarely wear it since I think it looks “too fancy”. Must remedy that soon.

Synopsis: This was a really boring project to make and not so much fun to do (like most basic pieces) but it will probably get a lot of wear this winter.

Simplicity 1554 blouse, circa 1940s

Posted on by
6

Blouse: Simplicity 1554 (40s pattern), self-made.
Skirt: Simplicity 4254 (40s pattern), self-made.
Shoes: ?

Simplicity 1554, front view #2.

Closeup view. (My hair has finally somewhat recovered from being layered so much.)

According to my notes I started this blouse in the beginning of August, but definitely finished it before then. Somewhere between going on vacation, attending Fashion Week, and looking for buttons it sat on my dressform for a good two or three weeks.

I used pearl buttons from MJ Trimmings and some cotton voile I got in the middle of summer. I usually think about buttons as an afterthought, but next time I want to make sure I have all my supplies together before finishing.

+ + +

Simplicity 1554 pattern.

+ + +

Pattern: Simplicity 1554, circa 1940s

Pattern Sizing: Bust 34

Did it look like the pattern envelope when you were done sewing it? Yes.

Fabric: Blue and white cotton voile.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn’t read or follow the directions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like how it has a few pieces and can be made with very little fabric.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? None.

Sizing issues: Yes! I bought the size closest to my measurements and it was still too large. I made two muslins and adjusted the sleeves so they weren’t as large and also raised the shoulder so it wouldn’t be as baggy.

New techniques learned: None.

Other notes: I used French seams and seam binding around the collar. I used the only light-colored interfacing I had and it was too stiff, so the collar sticks up a little too much. In the future I want to include the front facing in with cutting the front half so there’s less pieces (something I’ve seen in my DuBarry patterns) and clean up the collar section a bit. I also want to add two inches to the hem so I can wear it tucked out better.

Would you sew it again? Yes. I need more blouses in my wardrobe, and I think this one is simple enough to assemble. I also want to try the assembly line method with these at some point.

Transitional Fall SWAP: Sencha in Cotton Voile

Posted on by
Reply

Front view.

Front view, #2.

Fall Version
Blouse: homemade, cotton voile, Colette Patterns Sencha
Pants: homemade, gabardine, Wearing History 1930s repro pattern
Cardigan: H+M

+ + +

Front view.

Front view, #2.

Back view.

Summer Version
Blouse: homemade, cotton voile, Colette Patterns Sencha
Shorts: homemade, gabardine, Wearing History 1930s repro pattern

+ + +

I finally finished my Sencha in blue floral cotton voile. I drafted a peter pan collar and lowered the neckline. This is part of my Summer/Fall SWAP, and is my first experiment with transitional pieces and I think it’s working out fine so far. It’s an exercise more in styling the same piece to produce different looks for different seasons, which is interesting.

Finished Project: Cap Sleeve Dress, 1940s inspired, self-drafted

Posted on by
Reply
Front view.
Back view.
Closeup. (You can see my poor layered hair trying to do its best and blend in.)

+ + +

This was so hot this weekend (about 104 degrees) that I barely did any sewing. Most of this dress was made in bits and pieces over the week, sewing an hour or half an hour on it here and there. I used some cotton voile that I had in my closet in this Spring, in a print that felt vaguely 40-ish to me. I have three more pieces of cotton voile left, and am trying to use up most of them before the summer ends.

I drafted this dress from my bodice block. I have many patterns that have cap sleeves but somehow there’s always too much ease there for me to fit properly. I drafted cap sleeves with a center back seem, and grafted on a four-gore skirt. I made a muslin to check the fit and inserted a center back zipper. I love cap sleeves as a vintage detail, and will definitely use the bodice block in more variations.

Simplicity 3000, 1960s Cheongsam: The Dress With Many Technical Problems

Posted on by
7
Front view.

Side view.

Closeup view.

Closeup of frog closure.

+ + +

Pattern used: Simplicity 3000, circa 1960s

+ + +

Pattern: Simplicity 3000, circa 1960s

Pattern Sizing: Bust 35 1/2, half size. (Pointless since I had to size the bodice by using my bodice block.)

Description: 1960s cheongsam.

Did it look like the pattern envelope when you were done sewing it? Yes.

Fabric: Red and gold brocade for the body.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I read the directions, then disregarded them since they didn’t make any sense to me.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like the frog closures.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? Yes!

Sizing issues: Firstly, the pattern I bought was too big for me. I had to make so many changes to the bodice that I just ended up taking my bodice block, transferring the front pieces to it and fitting it that way. I forgot to take into account the sleeves (now too big) and the collar (also too big), so I had to omit them in the end. I wish it had sleeves, but the omitted collar worked out well since the body pieces already have a high neckline. I used an invisible zipper for the center back.

New techniques learned: This was my first time doing piping. I put piping on the sleeveless seam parts and on the frog closure parts. I did not have a proper piping foot, so I was using my invisible zipper foot, which was a pain. The piped pieces would get stuck in the invisible zipper foot’s teeth. Then I found my non-invisible zipper foot and used that, and it worked out better.

Other notes: The brocade was really slippery and very hard to work with. I serged the seams whenever I had a chance to, since by touching it it would just fray.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don’t know if I need another cheongsam dress, so no. I would recommend it to others though.

+ + +

Unrelated note: My hair is finally long enough to set and look remotely vintage, but I miss my hair. Hair always grows so slowly when you’re waiting.

Stealth Project: Wearing History Shorts, circa 1930s

Posted on by
2

060711-shorts2

Back view.

+ + +

060711-shorts3

Front view.

+ + +

060711-shorts1

Alternate side view.

+ + +

060711-shoes

View of shoes and toes.

+ + +

I needed a pair of shorts to wear to a Fourth of July barbecue over the weekend, so I made these high-waisted shorts in a span of two days. They are very comfy and are approaching granny-chic, but I’m fine with that.

Construction notes: I’ve made the trousers before from the same pattern, and just altered the leg length for shorts. I used leftover navy blue gabardine and a leftover button from my last project. I used cotton sateen as interfacing which was a bad idea, since the waistband came out too bulky and my machine messed up my one and only buttonhole. The button was big enough to hide my mistake though, and it’s still very much usable.

I don’t know if I’ll make another pair or shorts this summer, but if I do I plan to put in pockets.

It took an entire month and my hair is straight-ish but I finally managed to coax my hair into looking like something vintage-related. Slowly but surely.