Long Live McQueen: Savage Beauty at The Met

met1

I had a chance to catch the Savage Beauty exhibit at the Met over the weekend. We got there very early which was well worth it. We started the exhibit at around 10 am. By the time we left the exhibit at noon, the lines to the already-packed exhibit were very long.

My favorites for the collection were the Highland Rape series (crazy plaid matching!), the Romantic Gothic series, the BDSM inspired fitted dresses with leather harnesses, and his use of autobiographical and naturalist themes.

At some point I need to make a BDSM inspired dress. I’m definitely going to have to learn how to work with leather (or faux leather) this year.

They didn’t allow us to take pictures inside the exhibit, but these were my favorites.

26-mcqueen-sarabande

Sarabande.

+ + +

19-mcqueen-razor-clam-shells

A gown made of razor clam shells.

+ + +

23-mcqueen-eclect-dissect

Eclect Dissect. (One of my favorites. Then again, make anything fitted and leather and it probably will by my favorite.)

+ + +

25a-mcqueen-its-only-a-game

It’s Only a Game.

+ + +

5-mcqueenredvoss2001

Voss. (The dress is made out of microscope slides painted red with ostrich feathers.)

+ + +

27b-mcqueen-widows-of-culloden

Widows of Culloden. (My favorite from the Highland Rape series.)

+ + +

31-mcqueen-highland-rape

Jacket from the Highland Rape series.

+ + +

Photo credits: blog.metmuseum.org

Sewing/Style Inspiration: Stevie Nicks

I’ve been listening to Fleetwood Mac’s Rumours non-stop lately, and though late 1970s is barely considered vintage, I’ve always been inspired to dress like my rock star idols.

Stevie Nicks is the frontwoman of Fleetwood Mac. She pioneered a unique gypsy-luxe bohemian look: long fluid chiffon skirts, airy capes, shawls, platform boots and lots of black.

+ + +

singing

Stevie Nicks performing on stage, late 1970s. Note the beaded black lace shawl with a classic cotton tank top.

+ + +

09stevie1-650

Stevie Nicks in the early 1980s, wearing a white fringed shawl, low-cut dress with a ruffle, and high-heeled boots.

+ + +

fleetwood_mac

Fleetwood Mac in the late 1970s. Stevie in the center wearing a black chiffon dress and a top hat.

+ + +
Fleetwood_Mac3

Stevie is on the bottom right wearing a lace blouse and an ethnic print handkerchief skirt (or dress?).

+ + +

T1054033_04

Wearing a white lace shawl and a black dress.

+ + +

StevieNicks2

This photograph isn’t really a good example of her personal style since you can barely see what she’s wearing, but I love the rock and roll vibe of this shot.

+ + +

“I was very influenced by Janis Joplin,” Stevie said during a recent interview*, “the one time I saw Janis in person, and all the times I saw her on television with her feathers and her bell-bottomed pants and her beautiful silky blouse tops.” Stevie travelled to San Francisco to the Velvet Underground in at attempt to re-create her look. “It was a tiny little store, but it had the most beautiful things,” Nicks recalls. “Tunic tops that came down to your mid-thigh, and evening gown, old-lady nightgown material bell-bottoms that weren’t really wide, but instead fell straight over a really high boot.It was in that room where I thought ‘Wow! These are the kind of clothes I’m going to wear forever.’”

My new sewing motto from now on is: sew clothes that I’m going to wear forever.

+ + +

This leads me to my next sewing project, Butterick 6287 from the late 1970s:

b6287

I don’t have any fabric for this yet, but I’ll probably modify the hem so it has an asymmetrical hem or a handkerchief skirt.

* (interview source: LA Times, 10/23/97, Airy Godmother)

Face Shapes and Necklines

I plan to revisit my Sencha blouse again soon, which had me thinking about necklines and face shapes. I still wear my keyhole neckline Sencha, but I’ve never felt comfortable with the high neckline. I’ll probably draft the neckline differently once I tackle this project again for a more wearable Sencha based on the guidelines below.

+ + +

What face shape am I?

The best way to determine your face shape is to stand in front of a mirror. Pull your hair back and draw a faint line on the mirror, following the outline of your face.

Here are some examples of different face shapes:

women_face_shape

+ + +

The most balanced face shape is the oval face shape. The combination of the face shape and the neckline aim to create balance, giving the illusion of a more oval-shaped face. Here are some examples of face shapes and necklines.

+ + +

round-face

The Round Face

The round face needs vertical space to balance out the roundness. Necklines that are flattering include v-necks, shirt/blouse collars, Queen Anne necklines and Empire necklines.

+ + +

long-face

The Long Face

The long face needs horizontal space to balance out the longness, making the face appear wider and more oval. Necklines that are flattering include using necklines that are shallower, and which do not generate such a downward focus. Neck styles as the Sabrina, Bateau, Portrait and Cowl Neck, are also flattering.

+ + +

angular-face

The Angular Face

The angular face needs curves to balance out the angles. These can come in a variety of neckline styles, such as the Scoop Neck, Sabrina, Sweetheart and Cowl Neck styles. The triangle, inverted triangle and diamond shape face all fall under the Angular Face category, as do those individuals with a Square Face.

+ + +

neckline

The Oval Face

The oval face can wear generally any look, as it’s already balanced.

Source: greatestlook.com

+ + +

Here are other examples of necklines and face shapes:

FaceNeckline

casuallarge

revealinglarge

conservativelarge

Spring 2011 Storyboard: Navy and Pink

spring-2011

The best thing about sewing your own clothes is that you decide the trends, palette, and what you will want to make for yourself based on styles that flatter you (as opposed to flatting the masses).

I made a quick storyboard for possible projects for Spring 2011. Since I plan to sew a season ahead, this would be in progress right now. I picked the items of clothing that most closely matched fabric type, cut, or color, and thus the details in the storyboard aren’t entirely accurate.

Items I already own:

  • navy cotton poplin skirt (sewn last year)
  • pink cotton floral blouse (represented by polka-dot blouse, sewn last year)
  • white cotton floral blouse (already owned)
  • brown cardigan (already owned)
  • brown oxfords (already owned)
  • Items to make:

  • Anne Adams scalloped dress (in progress)
  • violet or pink skirt suit
  • navy gabardine pants
  • white cotton blouse
  • Items to buy:

  • camel trench coat
  • My Work Capsule: Fall/Winter

    The idea behind capsule dressing has been around for awhile now. Take 3 basic bottoms, 3 basic tops, and add accessories and you could be dressed in five minutes.

    Since I’ve been making most of my own clothes for this past year with a few notable exceptions (tights and undergarments), I’ve already been dressing this way without knowing it. I wanted to streamline my next few sewing projects so they’re practical and efficient. I put together a basic work capsule for fall/winter:

    Screen shot 2010-12-17 at 3.16.26 PM

    + + +

    3 Basic Bottoms:
    + black pencil skirt (already made)
    + black wide-legged trousers
    + black wool 1940s gored skirt

    3 Basic Tops:
    + black lace blouse (already have)
    + black fitted cardigan x2, plain and beaded (already have the plain)
    + black fitted bustier top or silk with lace tank top (already have)

    Accessories:
    + black/white spectator shoes (already have)
    + black rounded toe ankle boot (already have)
    + thin black leather belt (already have)
    + vintage-looking pins (already have, but don’t wear)

    + + +

    Since I’ve been dressing this way already, I already have more than half of the items from this list. I have a few vintage-looking pins already but never take the time to incorporate them into my wardrobe. This would effectively break up the all-black monotony and give each outfit something unique. Based on this capsule idea, here are my conclusions:

    Things I need to make:
    + black wool 1940s gored skirt
    + black wool wide-legged 1940s style trousers

    Things I need to buy:
    + black beaded cardigan