Category Archives: pants

Colette Patterns Clover, Muslin #3

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I tried making Clover a few months ago and my first try at it was a complete fail. I’ve since read Pants for Real People and the next draft was a little better. I used a stretchy cotton that will mimic my final fabric, and fitted the pants as best as I could. Muslin #2 (not shown here) was baggy and even more unflattering, but this muslin turned out better.

Alterations:
- cut a size 4 (instead of a size 6), but it was still way too big (?)
- shortened the leg by one inch
- added one inch to the crotch length
- sewed all seams 1″ (after 5/8″ was still too baggy and unflattering)
- added the waistband to the muslin for even more accuracy

I think this is as good as it gets and will be making this version out of the fashion fabric. I’m not sure if the blue stretch twill I’ll be using will be as stretchy as the muslin, so I’ll be basting 1″ inch seams first, then testing it, then finalizing it if that works out.

Cigarette Pants, Self-Drafted

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Front view, #1.

Sweater: thrifted
Pants: self-drafted, homemade
Blouse: Daffy’s, from many years ago,
Necklace: homemade
Leopard platform stilettos: thrifted

Front view, #2.

Front view, #3.

Side view.

Closeup view.

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These pants were inspired by Midge Daniels. After my pants-fitting debacle a few weeks ago, I finally decided to draft my own.

Fabric used: medium-weight cotton sateen, with 1% stretch

Construction notes: I used my skirt sloper to draft these pants. I drafted these to sit at the natural waist with no ease and used fabric with 1% stretch. I made my muslin with stretch fabric and made my final version with cotton sateen. I used an invisible zipper on the side.

Beta-testing notes: I’ve already worn these pants out and about and they’re very comfy. Will definitely make again, either in more cotton sateen or brushed wool corduroy.

Parade of Pant Muslins, Part 2

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Pants drafting.

I know I said I’d use my last franken-pattern as a base, but I still didn’t have enough confidence in it to cut into my stretch good black brushed wool corduroy or my cotton sateen. I had such a hard time with Clover that I thought I would just draft my own pants.

Since I was going to be using a stretch fabric, I drafted these to my measurements with no ease. I used a white fabric with similar stretch properties as my muslin. I think this is my most successful pants muslin yet.

Front view.

Side view.

Almost back view.

Sitting view.

Edit: I actually finished these pants using cotton sateen and tested the live version yesterday and it held up pretty well. More photos to come.

Parade of Pants Muslins

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Parade of Pants Muslins

In a perfect world, there are no bad muslins, only well-fitting first drafts. Here are my pants muslins for my cigarette pants, which I yet have to find a TNT (tried and true) pattern for.

Clover, as is.

Here is my first draft of Clover with no adjustments. The legs are too long, and the inseam is way too short. This is before the waistband is added and it will be a lot taller, but it definitely does not fit properly. My shirt is pulled up so you can see exactly how low the waistband hits.

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Simplicity 4886 + Clover legs + Wearing History high-waisted trousers.

This one is a franken-pattern of Simplicity 4886, WH trousers, and Clover legs. I’ll be using this as my base, and tapering the hips/legs so it’s more fitted. We’ll see how it goes.

Sewing Fail: Colette Patterns Clover

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Esteemed Sewing Assistant with Clover pants pattern.

I was really excited to get the new pants pattern Clover from Colette Patterns, but upon making a quick muslin of it right off the bat, it was definite muslin fail. I must be too used to wearing vintage-styled clothing since the inseam was way too low on me. That’s something I’m not used to anymore — it feels like the pants are going to fall off. I must have measured wrong or something since I made a standard muslin with actual muslin and the hips and waist were way too big. Granted this is without any alterations, and I have the same problem when buying ready-to-wear jeans.

I thought Clover would be my TNT cigarette pants pattern, but not without some alterations. I have higher expectations when buying modern patterns since they come in multi-fit sizes and are tailored to more modern proportions, and so if something doesn’t fit right out of the box I’m more surprised than usual. The pattern looks well-drafted and has clearly written instructions and I don’t want to give up on it yet.

Sewing Inspiration: Midge Daniels in Mad Men

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Midge Daniels in Mad Men, wearing the Most Awesome Cigarette Pants Ever.
Photo credit: Tom and Lorenzo

I’m new to this whole watching TV thing so I only started watching Mad Men last week, and it’s amazing. I’m more into the 40s style-wise and thought watching something that took place in the early 60s would feel too modern, but I find the early styles very inspirational. I know about it through the style blogs but haven’t seen the series, and I like it more than I thought I would. This show might push up my favorite fashion era from 1942-1945 to 1942-1950s.

Some of my favorite things I’ve seen from this show are the sheath dresses, pencil skirts, straight skirts, brooches, cardigans, and cigarette pants. Trousers from the 40s get a lot of wear but feel a little bit too formal for weekends, so I definitely want to make a pair of cigarette pants.

I’ve made high-waisted pants before, but I always feel like the fit was a little bit off. My TNT high-waisted 40s-style trousers are great, but definitely not cigarette pants.

I’m going to be trying out Clover by Colette Patterns to see if this will by my TNT pattern. Failing that, maybe a franken-pattern of Wearing History trousers and Simplicity 4886?

Transitional Fall SWAP: Sencha in Cotton Voile

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Front view.

Front view, #2.

Fall Version
Blouse: homemade, cotton voile, Colette Patterns Sencha
Pants: homemade, gabardine, Wearing History 1930s repro pattern
Cardigan: H+M

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Front view.

Front view, #2.

Back view.

Summer Version
Blouse: homemade, cotton voile, Colette Patterns Sencha
Shorts: homemade, gabardine, Wearing History 1930s repro pattern

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I finally finished my Sencha in blue floral cotton voile. I drafted a peter pan collar and lowered the neckline. This is part of my Summer/Fall SWAP, and is my first experiment with transitional pieces and I think it’s working out fine so far. It’s an exercise more in styling the same piece to produce different looks for different seasons, which is interesting.

Finished project: Wearing History Trousers & Blouse, 1930s reproduction

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WH-020611-front5

Front view.

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WH-020611-front

Front detail view.

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Yet another front view.

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Alternate front view.

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Crouched front view.

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I finished the trousers and blouse from Wearing History Smooth Sailing. Since they are my absolute favorite, this is the pattern review for the trousers only.

Project Details:

Pattern: Wearing History Smooth Sailing trousers, circa 1930s. Reproduction pattern.

Pattern Sizing: Size A, 28 waist.

Description: High-waisted trousers. These are inspired by a 1930s style, but can easily pass for 1940s.

Did it look like the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Fabric: Gabardine. This fabric had a good amount of drape and structure at the same time.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This is the second time I’ve made these pants. This pattern is awesome! I love the easy-to-follow instructions.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None! I serged my seams to finish them, added an invisible zipper, and a hook and eye. I left out the belt and belt loops because I was lazy.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Again: this pattern is awesome! This is my TNT (tried and true) high-waisted trousers pattern.

Finished project: F/W 2010

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The concept of capsule dressing is simple. Start with three bottoms and three tops, and mix and match. My original concept for Fall/Winter 2010 was to dress in all black and accessorize with shoes and brooches. I’ve taken that idea and modified it since so it’s even simpler. My accent piece is just one necklace, and I’ve reduced it to one pair of shoes for all outfits. Since black is hard to photograph, I’ve modified it to black/dark grey instead of all black.

Items I made:
Burda pencil skirt
High-waisted black wool trousers
Four-gored 1940s skirt

Items I own:
Black ankle boots
Black lace tights
Garnet necklace
Velvet jacket
Grey cardigan
Black victorian detailed blouse
Grey lace knit top

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Personal style: Design details that I navigated to (based on what I pulled from my closet as favorite items) included lace, velvet, tailored jackets, and antique or Victorian inspired details.

Here are some close-ups of the items I pulled from my closet:

jacket

Velvet jacket, dark grey with white small polka-dots, thrifted.

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Black Victorian top, with lace detail at yoke. I love the small buttons by the button placket and the mandarin collar, but this style seems really high-necked and constrictive to me most of the time. Still the details make it one of my favorites.

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black-lace-top2

Black lace yoke closeup.

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necklace

Garnet necklace, closeup. I’ve had this since high school. I love the antique-looking detail.

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Here are the combinations that worked well so far:

Burda-8155-b

Burda pencil skirt in black cotton sateen, black lace blouse, fishnet tights. I actually forgot to include the pencil skirt in the range of possibilities below, but it is very versatile and comfortble.

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pants-greylacetop-jacket

Wool high-waisted trousers, grey lace top, necklace, velvet jacket.

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pants-jacket

Wool high-waisted trousers, grey lace top, necklace, velvet jacket. Side view.

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WH-13011-woolpants2

Wool high-waisted trousers, black lace top, velvet jacket.

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WH-13011-woolpants4

Wool high-waisted trousers, black lace top, grey cardigan.

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pants-greylacetop

Wool high-waisted trousers, grey lace top.

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pants-greylacetop3

Wool high-waisted trousers, grey lace top. Side view.

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gored-skirt

1940s four-gored skirt, grey lace top, lace tights.

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gored-skirt-cardigan

1940s four-gored skirt, grey lace top, cardigan, lace tights.

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gored-skirt-vicBlouse-cardigan

1940s four-gored skirt, black Victorian top, cardigan, lace tights.

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Conclusion: I’ve never seen the value of separates until now, especially separates that coincide with each other. I usually sew a wardrobe full of dresses and always feel like I don’t have enough variety. This year will definitely be the year of sewing separates.

This has also been a good exercise in determining my personal style. In the Fall/Winter (and perhaps more season as well), I’m drawn to antique-looking details and Victorian and Gothic styles. I like velvet, lace, and fabric that feels luscious with interesting design details.