Sewing Inspiration: Midge Daniels in Mad Men

Midge Daniels in Mad Men, wearing the Most Awesome Cigarette Pants Ever.
Photo credit: Tom and Lorenzo

I’m new to this whole watching TV thing so I only started watching Mad Men last week, and it’s amazing. I’m more into the 40s style-wise and thought watching something that took place in the early 60s would feel too modern, but I find the early styles very inspirational. I know about it through the style blogs but haven’t seen the series, and I like it more than I thought I would. This show might push up my favorite fashion era from 1942-1945 to 1942-1950s.

Some of my favorite things I’ve seen from this show are the sheath dresses, pencil skirts, straight skirts, brooches, cardigans, and cigarette pants. Trousers from the 40s get a lot of wear but feel a little bit too formal for weekends, so I definitely want to make a pair of cigarette pants.

I’ve made high-waisted pants before, but I always feel like the fit was a little bit off. My TNT high-waisted 40s-style trousers are great, but definitely not cigarette pants.

I’m going to be trying out Clover by Colette Patterns to see if this will by my TNT pattern. Failing that, maybe a franken-pattern of Wearing History trousers and Simplicity 4886?

Transitional Fall SWAP: Sencha in Cotton Voile

Front view.

Front view, #2.

Fall Version
Blouse: homemade, cotton voile, Colette Patterns Sencha
Pants: homemade, gabardine, Wearing History 1930s repro pattern
Cardigan: H+M

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Front view.

Front view, #2.

Back view.

Summer Version
Blouse: homemade, cotton voile, Colette Patterns Sencha
Shorts: homemade, gabardine, Wearing History 1930s repro pattern

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I finally finished my Sencha in blue floral cotton voile. I drafted a peter pan collar and lowered the neckline. This is part of my Summer/Fall SWAP, and is my first experiment with transitional pieces and I think it’s working out fine so far. It’s an exercise more in styling the same piece to produce different looks for different seasons, which is interesting.

Finished project: Wearing History Trousers & Blouse, 1930s reproduction

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Front view.

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Front detail view.

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Yet another front view.

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Alternate front view.

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Crouched front view.

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I finished the trousers and blouse from Wearing History Smooth Sailing. Since they are my absolute favorite, this is the pattern review for the trousers only.

Project Details:

Pattern: Wearing History Smooth Sailing trousers, circa 1930s. Reproduction pattern.

Pattern Sizing: Size A, 28 waist.

Description: High-waisted trousers. These are inspired by a 1930s style, but can easily pass for 1940s.

Did it look like the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Fabric: Gabardine. This fabric had a good amount of drape and structure at the same time.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This is the second time I’ve made these pants. This pattern is awesome! I love the easy-to-follow instructions.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None! I serged my seams to finish them, added an invisible zipper, and a hook and eye. I left out the belt and belt loops because I was lazy.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Again: this pattern is awesome! This is my TNT (tried and true) high-waisted trousers pattern.

Finished project: F/W 2010

The concept of capsule dressing is simple. Start with three bottoms and three tops, and mix and match. My original concept for Fall/Winter 2010 was to dress in all black and accessorize with shoes and brooches. I’ve taken that idea and modified it since so it’s even simpler. My accent piece is just one necklace, and I’ve reduced it to one pair of shoes for all outfits. Since black is hard to photograph, I’ve modified it to black/dark grey instead of all black.

Items I made:
Burda pencil skirt
High-waisted black wool trousers
Four-gored 1940s skirt

Items I own:
Black ankle boots
Black lace tights
Garnet necklace
Velvet jacket
Grey cardigan
Black victorian detailed blouse
Grey lace knit top

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Personal style: Design details that I navigated to (based on what I pulled from my closet as favorite items) included lace, velvet, tailored jackets, and antique or Victorian inspired details.

Here are some close-ups of the items I pulled from my closet:

jacket

Velvet jacket, dark grey with white small polka-dots, thrifted.

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Black Victorian top, with lace detail at yoke. I love the small buttons by the button placket and the mandarin collar, but this style seems really high-necked and constrictive to me most of the time. Still the details make it one of my favorites.

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Black lace yoke closeup.

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necklace

Garnet necklace, closeup. I’ve had this since high school. I love the antique-looking detail.

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Here are the combinations that worked well so far:

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Burda pencil skirt in black cotton sateen, black lace blouse, fishnet tights. I actually forgot to include the pencil skirt in the range of possibilities below, but it is very versatile and comfortble.

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Wool high-waisted trousers, grey lace top, necklace, velvet jacket.

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Wool high-waisted trousers, grey lace top, necklace, velvet jacket. Side view.

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Wool high-waisted trousers, black lace top, velvet jacket.

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Wool high-waisted trousers, black lace top, grey cardigan.

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Wool high-waisted trousers, grey lace top.

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Wool high-waisted trousers, grey lace top. Side view.

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1940s four-gored skirt, grey lace top, lace tights.

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1940s four-gored skirt, grey lace top, cardigan, lace tights.

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1940s four-gored skirt, black Victorian top, cardigan, lace tights.

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Conclusion: I’ve never seen the value of separates until now, especially separates that coincide with each other. I usually sew a wardrobe full of dresses and always feel like I don’t have enough variety. This year will definitely be the year of sewing separates.

This has also been a good exercise in determining my personal style. In the Fall/Winter (and perhaps more season as well), I’m drawn to antique-looking details and Victorian and Gothic styles. I like velvet, lace, and fabric that feels luscious with interesting design details.

Finished object: Wearing History Smooth Sailing, Trousers

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Front view.

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Alternate front view.

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Front view, with cardigan and knit top.

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Side view.

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Back view.

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I finished these trousers last week and have only had a chance to properly photograph them over the weekend. I’ve been wearing them almost every day since it’s gotten very cold here. I finished these in one day (about ten hours?), from making a muslin to getting a finished product.

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Pattern Review:

Finished object: Wearing History Smooth Sailing, Trousers

Pattern Used: Wearing History Smooth Sailing, Mid 1930s Sports Trousers, size A

Pattern Description: High-waisted trousers, 1930s style.

Pattern Sizing: I used packet A, Bust 30-32-34. I cut a size 34, waist 28 for the trousers.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Very easy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I made a muslin before I cut this in my fashion fabric, and it turned out pretty well. The high-waist is comfortable and flattering, and very practical.

Fabric Used: 60″ wool fabric with a good drape, 2 yards. $10/yard.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: No revisions except for shortening the pant leg, since I am short. I serged the edges before I assembled the pieces together, and seamed up the left pants leg before I inserted the invisible zipper. I interfaced the waistband as well.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes!

Conclusion: This will be my TNT (tried and true) pattern for wide-legged, high-waist trousers. I’ve already made another one so far since finishing these.

Wearing History Wool Trousers, circa 1930s

I know I’m supposed to be hand-sewing the facing on my Anne Adams dress, but I couldn’t resist a practical stealth project. This deviates from my plan to make garments one season ahead, but it’s in the 20s in the NYC region this week, and I needed something warmer to wear other than my wool skirt. This garment is part of my Fall/Winter 2010-2011 capsule.

Black is very hard to photograph, and black fabric indoors during winter is even harder. Proper photos upcoming.

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In progress shots.

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Esteemed Sewing Assistant, assisting.

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Channeling my inner PJ Harvey and my inner Katherine Hepburn. I usually wait until it’s daylight to photograph my projects, but I love these pants.

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Channeling my inner Kat Von D.

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Pattern Review:

Fabric used: Black wool – 2 yd, $24

Notions: zipper – $1

Total cost: $25

Pattern: Wearing History Smooth Sailing trousers

Year: c. 1930s?

Time to complete: 7 hours. This includes making a muslin for the trousers.

First worn: January 24, 2011

Wear again: Yes. I’m making a cotton gabardine version now for Spring/Summer.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None. Surprisingly it fit right off the envelope. I serged the edges as I went along, and it came together smoothly.

Simplicity 4886: High Waisted Pants, circa 1950s

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s4886-grey-aFront view.

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s4886-grey-dSide/back view.

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Pattern used:
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I recently finished these High Waisted Pants from Simplicity 4886. I’ve made this pattern twice before, both in capri length. I used cotton/polyester, interfaced the waistband, and inserted an invisible zipper on the side.

I don’t know if I like cotton/polyester (or anything with polyester) as much as I do natural fabrics. This version is still very wearable, but these aren’t as comfortable to wear as the capris are. I also need to move up the inseam a little bit if I’m to make these again.

Seersucker Capri Pants, circa 1950s

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Pattern used:
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This is my second version of this pattern using white and black seersucker. I used a metal zipper from my stash since I didn’t have an invisible small white zipper, and I used heavier interfacing for the waistband. My original pattern review can be found here.

I was wearing these pants when my workmates and I were eating lunch at the FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) campus near our workplace the other day. The woman was photographing students on the campus and included our group. Hopefully these pants are photogenic.

Future Project: Advance 3748, circa 1940s

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I was innocently perusing the internet today when I accidentally ended up buying this pattern. Most of my searches for 40s patterns has yielded dresses. This is the first time where I’ve seen a jumpsuit/romper pattern. It reminds me of this piece I saw in the Brooklyn Museum couture exhibit over the summer.

IMG_15191940s jumpsuit, worn by women working in the factories at the time.