Category Archives: sewing

Simplicity 2178: What I’ve Been Working on Lately

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This is probably so last year, but I’m finally joining the masses and working on this Cynthia Rowley pattern I’ve had languishing in my closet for the past few months. I’m using a black rayon that has a paint splatter pattern on it. This is the first modern pattern I’ve worked on since I first learned how to sew.

This pattern isn’t even muslined out yet, but I already have a lot I don’t like about it. I must have been spoiled by working on vintage patterns, since this project has way too many small bits and pieces. I also don’t like the weird gathers by the front waist so this version is already going to be heavily modified, at least in the bodice area. I also plan on lengthening the skirt since I haven’t worn a skirt above knee-length since I was in Catholic school.

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You know you’ve been drafting too hard when you break your plastic ruler in half.

McCall’s 4994: Joan’s Pink and Purple Dress

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Closeup view.

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The new season of Mad Men starts today. I finished this purple/pink dress based on Joan’s dress last week and only had time to post it now.

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Front view.

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Side view.

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Joan’s dress. (source: Tom & Lorenzo)

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Pattern used: McCall’s 4994.

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Construction notes:
I used the short sleeve version of McCall’s 4994. I drafted the yoke and the tie part out of pink georgette and the rest of the dress was made of violet crepe. I used an invisible zipper in the back. I also used seam binding on the collar area.

Pros:
+ it fits!
+ it sort of looks like Joan’s dress

Cons:
+ crepe was really hard to work with
+ it’s a little bunchy?

This dress turned out better than I thought. I’ll definitely make more versions of McCall’s 4994.

McCall’s 4994: Muslin in Progress

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Smurfette (my dressform) modeling the muslin.

Everything looks beautiful on Smurfette. Of course some fitting issues don’t show since she has no arms, and that might be how I missed this the first time around.

Unflattering mirror shot #1. (Yes, I wear glasses. Sigh.)

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Unflattering mirror shot #2. Bruise on wrist from stick and knife.

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This is my second muslin for McCall’s 4994. The first version had really bunchy arms. I adjusted the pattern by making the kimono sleeve 2 inches smaller and (after looking at this now) need to add 2 inches to the waist. Adjusting it from 3/4 sleeves to short sleeves might have helped the issue with the sleeves some, but not by much.

This Week’s Unexpected Project: Clover Pants

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Front view.

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Side view.

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Side view, #2.

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Back view.

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Back view, #2.

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(It’s kind of strange to have your butt be on so many angles for the header image of a blog post.)

For this project I used a medium-weight grey twill. I cut the pieces for this project a few weeks ago, put them in a ziplock bag, and stashed them underneath the xbox (the cabinet that the xbox sits on, not the actual xbox itself). I started these on Friday night when I unexpectedly left work late enough to skip going to the dojo (ugh!) and surprisingly finished them on Saturday morning.

I used the same pattern as before except narrowed the leg. This version came along smoothly until it was time to get to the waistband. The fabric I used this time had 0% stretch (mistake #1). I didn’t label the waistband front and back and sewed the front and back on backwards (mistake #2. When I noticed this the waistband was already serged and sewn on, so I unpicked my stitches and cut off the serged part (mistake #3). All of these mistakes compounded to other parts, making the waistband area a lot smaller. When it was time to try on the pants the waist area didn’t fit! I undid the side seam, made some adjustments to the waistband, tried them on, and then they fit. However at this point it was past 2 am and I was convinced they still didn’t fit and I’d have to recut.

On Saturday morning I looked at them again, determined to re-cut if they didn’t fit, and now they fit properly (?!). I guess my adjustments were fine after all. Hmmph.

Also shown here is the Geometric Sorbetto, which definitely looks more vintage with set hair.

Notes for future clovers:
- Label the waistband front and back
- Find a zipper that matches the fabric closely
- Pick fabrics with 4% stretch as recommended by pattern

This project is part of my Spring/Summer SWAP which has changed yet again and needs to be documented properly. More on this in the future.