I promised myself no more patterns since my box that holds patterns can’t close anymore and I’ve been getting more into drafting my own patterns, but I was really intrigued by Simplicity 4514. The corset-inspired bodice is interesting, and I haven’t seen this detail yet in many of the 40s patterns that I have.
Simplicity 4298.
There’s another work event coming up next week (!!!) which calls for another project. I started Simplicity 4298 over the weekend. Hopefully I can finish it in time.
We had a work event last week that called for “black tie formal masquerade” and I didn’t have anything to wear.
Pattern used:
Simplicity 4774.
Notes:
I made this dress in about a week, finishing at the eleventh hour at 1 am the night before the event. I made a bodice of the top and used a dirndl skirt for the bottom since I didn’t want to cut into the lace border pattern. I underlined the silver lace with flesh-colored fabric, and it turned out better than I thought.
I’m fine with a dirndl silhouette, as long as there is a belt to hide all the gathering by the waistband. I plan to make this pattern again, making some modifications to the bodice (which is a little too long) and doing the gathering by machine instead of by hand, so it’s more even.
This is just pin-fitted for now since sewing over embroidered lace/tulle is probably irreversible. 48 hours left to finish this and counting.
Blouse: Simplicity 1554 (40s pattern), self-made.
Skirt: Simplicity 4254 (40s pattern), self-made.
Shoes: ?
Simplicity 1554, front view #2.
Closeup view. (My hair has finally somewhat recovered from being layered so much.)
According to my notes I started this blouse in the beginning of August, but definitely finished it before then. Somewhere between going on vacation, attending Fashion Week, and looking for buttons it sat on my dressform for a good two or three weeks.
I used pearl buttons from MJ Trimmings and some cotton voile I got in the middle of summer. I usually think about buttons as an afterthought, but next time I want to make sure I have all my supplies together before finishing.
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Simplicity 1554 pattern.
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Pattern: Simplicity 1554, circa 1940s
Pattern Sizing: Bust 34
Did it look like the pattern envelope when you were done sewing it? Yes.
Fabric: Blue and white cotton voile.
Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn’t read or follow the directions.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like how it has a few pieces and can be made with very little fabric.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? None.
Sizing issues: Yes! I bought the size closest to my measurements and it was still too large. I made two muslins and adjusted the sleeves so they weren’t as large and also raised the shoulder so it wouldn’t be as baggy.
New techniques learned: None.
Other notes: I used French seams and seam binding around the collar. I used the only light-colored interfacing I had and it was too stiff, so the collar sticks up a little too much. In the future I want to include the front facing in with cutting the front half so there’s less pieces (something I’ve seen in my DuBarry patterns) and clean up the collar section a bit. I also want to add two inches to the hem so I can wear it tucked out better.
Would you sew it again? Yes. I need more blouses in my wardrobe, and I think this one is simple enough to assemble. I also want to try the assembly line method with these at some point.
Simplicity 1554, circa 1940s.
I started my muslin of Simplicity 1554 the other day. I need more versatile blouses for the late summer/fall, and these make variations that look different enough. I had to make a lot of changes to the original pattern since it was way too big and boxy. This is my second muslin.
I got these beach rocks on the Oregon Coast. Much classier than using tins of food as pattern weights.
More beach rocks as pattern weights.
Muslin bodice front view.
Closeup of front view.
Front view.
Side view.
Closeup view.
Closeup of frog closure.
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Pattern used: Simplicity 3000, circa 1960s
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Pattern: Simplicity 3000, circa 1960s
Pattern Sizing: Bust 35 1/2, half size. (Pointless since I had to size the bodice by using my bodice block.)
Description: 1960s cheongsam.
Did it look like the pattern envelope when you were done sewing it? Yes.
Fabric: Red and gold brocade for the body.
Were the instructions easy to follow? I read the directions, then disregarded them since they didn’t make any sense to me.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like the frog closures.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? Yes!
Sizing issues: Firstly, the pattern I bought was too big for me. I had to make so many changes to the bodice that I just ended up taking my bodice block, transferring the front pieces to it and fitting it that way. I forgot to take into account the sleeves (now too big) and the collar (also too big), so I had to omit them in the end. I wish it had sleeves, but the omitted collar worked out well since the body pieces already have a high neckline. I used an invisible zipper for the center back.
New techniques learned: This was my first time doing piping. I put piping on the sleeveless seam parts and on the frog closure parts. I did not have a proper piping foot, so I was using my invisible zipper foot, which was a pain. The piped pieces would get stuck in the invisible zipper foot’s teeth. Then I found my non-invisible zipper foot and used that, and it worked out better.
Other notes: The brocade was really slippery and very hard to work with. I serged the seams whenever I had a chance to, since by touching it it would just fray.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don’t know if I need another cheongsam dress, so no. I would recommend it to others though.
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Unrelated note: My hair is finally long enough to set and look remotely vintage, but I miss my hair. Hair always grows so slowly when you’re waiting.
The Tulip Dress
Bodice: self-drafted, Skirt: Simplicity 4254, circa 1940s
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I started this dress last week and finished it before summer was over, thankfully. I only had 2 yards of this cotton tulip print and wanted to make the most out of it. I have a few more summer dresses to finish up and then I’ll be sewing a season ahead again soon for Fall 2011.
This is one of my upcoming projects on the queue, Simplicity 3000 circa 1959, a cheongsam. I plan to make it in this red brocade with a gold bamboo pattern. This will be my first time making a small-bust adjustment and working with brocade.
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The brocade looks orange here but it’s really a true red.
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Closeup of the gold bamboo pattern.