Category Archives: skirt

Make This Look: The Vocal Celebrity Skirt

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The Facts

Fabric: Blue microfiber, $7/yd. White cotton swiss dot, $4/yd.
Pattern: Gathered skirt, self-drafted
Year: 2012
Notions: Blue invisible zipper, $1. White lace trim, $12/yd.
Time to complete: 6 hours
First worn: Never been worn!
Wear again: Yes
Total price: $30

This skirt was inspired by the Vocal Celebrity Skirt from Modcloth. The skirt was self-drafted and is a simple rectangle gathered at the waist. I inserted an invisible zipper and sewed the lace on to the hem. I didn’t have any cream silk or silk charmeuse so I made a sash belt from cotton swiss dot in my stash.

All the materials from this project except for the lace came from my stash. I wouldn’t have otherwise thought of making this skirt, but it came together pretty well with what what was in my stash. A more accurate version would have a silk or charmeuse sash. Mine was cotton since that was what I had on hand. I didn’t compromise on the tall wide lace for the hem since I think that makes the look.

During construction. My favorite part of the skirt is the lace.

It was a cloudy day indoors when I took these photos so there are very few full outfit shots that aren’t blurry (will definitely have to repost when I find a better light source for these), but I accessorized with this confetti lucite hinge bracelet from the 50s. It has seashells embedded in with huge glitter confetti.

(crossposted to Sew Weekly)

The Fashion Week Skirt

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The Facts

Fabric: Faux leather
Pattern: self-drafted
Year: 2011
Notions: black invisible zipper
Time to complete: 3 hours
First worn: New York Fashion Week, last Fall
Wear again: Yes
Total price: around $10

This skirt was inspired by two accessories: these leather studded platform boots and these two leather cuffs, worn stacked together. I picked up the chunky leather cuff with silver studs at a now closed-down accessory place on St. Mark’s Place. The other bracelet wraps twice around the wrist and has gold studs, and was a gift from one of my best friends last Christmas.

Way before I got into vintage, I’ve been very much inspired by the music I listen to: glam rock and classic rock and roll. The whole look consists of leather, loads of black eyeliner, tights, unset hair, tattoos, and tons of attitude.

I drafted the pattern myself based on my bodice block. This is my first time working with faux leather, and it went along smoother than I thought it would. I did make the fatal beginner mistake of pressing down my seams with a hot iron, which absolutely melted the fabric so I had to re-cut one of the pieces again. I pressed the pieces down with a cold iron the next time around and it worked out well.

This skirt is very comfortable and it survived my second day of Fashion Week last year. Since then I’ve worn it several times (including to work). It’s a nod to the East Village, riding the L train late at night, listening to Bowie on your headphones while cutting fabric at 2 am, seeing your first runway show at Fashion Week, and evokes the energy that surrounds the city I live in.

(cross-posted to Sew Weekly.)

Halloween 2011: The Black Dahlia

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Sweater: H&M, many years ago
Top: ?
Skirt: Burda 8155, homemade
Shoes: thrifted


Esteemed Sewing Assistant also dressed up this year, as Count Beanicus.

I ran out of time sewing my Halloween costume this year so I decided to go as the Black Dahlia. “The Black Dahlia” was a nickname given to Elizabeth Short, a woman who was found mutilated and gruesomely murdered in the mid 1940s. Her face was slashed from the corners of her mouth toward her ears, called the Glasgow smile.

I’ve always been a purist in Halloween, thinking that dressing up should be saved for ghouls, goblins, monsters and anything generally scary. I broke that rule the past year or so dressing as a princess and a mermaid (what was I thinking?), but my commitment to Halloween gore is back full-swing.

I might recycle this costume this year (with an actual attempt to sew a 1940s dress), since it looks gory enough to revisit in future years.

Wool Pencil Skirt, self-drafted

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Skirt: basic pencil skirt, self-drafted
Blouse: Sencha with modified neckline, self-made
Accessories: Bracelet, faux confetti lucite
Shoes: ?

Channeling my best Elizabeth Taylor.

I set my hair a little differently than usual so it’s super poofy (and more 50s-seeming) here.

Back vent detail. Skirt wrinkles easily apparently.

Lining/basic construction shot.

Hand-stitching by the zipper area.

Closeup of faux confetti lucite bracelet.

I drafted this pencil skirt out of my bodice block. I definitely don’t have enough winter skirts and wanted to make some basic pieces. This one was made from men’s suiting and lined with polyester/cotton.

This was a really boring project to make. The pieces were so simple and brown is not really a very alluring color to look at, but it’s a good neutral and it will probably get a lot of use this winter. I also did a lot more hand-sewing than usual and is my first try at fully lining a skirt.

Techniques learned:
- drafting a pencil skirt from your sloper
- drafting a lining based on the skirt pattern
- drafted a back vent instead of a slit
- importance of slow sewing (lots of hand-sewing, fully-lined)

Project notes: This was my first project at lining a skirt entirely. I stitched the lining by the zipper area by hand, but I want to find a better way to attach the lining. I will probably finish the entire lining entirely by machine next time. I used French seams on lining hem and drafted the lining pieces based off of the skirt piece.

I pegged the bottom and though I made two muslins before starting, the skirt was still way too large (probably from working with wool?) when I was done.

I originally did a blind hem stitch by machine at the bottom, then realized the blind hem wasn’t so invisible and took it apart and hand-stitched the hem. I used a brown invisible zipper that I had in the back of my closet.

I also noticed that this version of Sencha is comfortable and goes with everything, but I rarely wear it since I think it looks “too fancy”. Must remedy that soon.

Synopsis: This was a really boring project to make and not so much fun to do (like most basic pieces) but it will probably get a lot of wear this winter.

She’s in Fetish: My Love/Hate Relationship with Leather

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Pre-sewing me from many years ago, wearing latex, not leather.

I have a love/hate relationship with leather. It’s sensual, classic, doesn’t mar easily, is durable and can go from punk rock to 1970s edgy rock and roll to dominatrix with just a few accessories. It also sticks to the skin, doesn’t breathe in humid or hot weather, is very sensitive to heat (and in cases of faux leather, will actually melt right off), is difficult to press creases out of, is slippery, and might requires a teflon foot so it will behave.

Leather is a huge trend for Fall 2011, but far from following trends, my most inspirational fashion icon for dressing in leather is Dita von Teese:

Dita’s leather dress, #1.

Dita’s leather dress, #2.

Over the weekend, I finally attempted by tried and true pencil skirt pattern (Burda 8155) in faux leather. To my surprise: my machine can sew through leather! I found a material which had just enough drape, wasn’t too stiff, and had the sheen of leather.

Sewing a test piece of faux leather. Standard needle (80/12) and polyester thread.

Some tips for sewing through faux leather:
- Sew very carefully
- Be careful when pressing the seams flat
- Be careful when using your iron (the heat melted one of my seams right off)
- Use press cloths carefully (I was too afraid that I’d melt off my garment, so I didn’t even do this)
- Fitting is more tricky than using a woven (I had to take in the waist by a few inches, for no apparent reason)

The skirt is definitely not perfect, but very wearable for only an hour’s work, from cutting to assembly. About 1/4 of an inch of the bottom slit melted when I tried to press it, and the side seams need to be pressed flat, but I’m happy with it. I still need to take a proper photograph with this skirt at some point.

Now that I know I’m somewhat capable of this, I plan to definitely make more leather pieces (hopefully vintage inspired) for this season.

Synopsis of my evening.

This picture sums up my evening: duckie umbrella (for sloshing through 10 blocks of rain, stepping in puddles inadvertently, and coming home soaked), ironing board, Bean’s two stray cat toys, and Burda 8155, the leather version, waiting in the wings.

Fall 2011 Projects: Sewing with a Plan

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I started a SWAP (sewing with a plan) for Spring 2011. Matching up combinations of tops and bottoms meant that there was a wide range of projects that I could sew, and that each one would be worn again and again. I have about three more projects left using the cotton in my stash, and then I plan to start my Fall SWAP.

Here are the projects that I plan to make:

Tops: (left to right)
1. Wearing History blouse
2. Cap Sleeve blouse with front buttons, self-drafted (inspired by McCall’s 7305)
3. New Look 6808, blouse #1
4. New Look 6808, blouse #2

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Bottoms: (left to right)
1. Wearing History trousers, #1
2. Wearing History trousers, #2
3. Colette Patterns Ginger, skirt
4. Simplicity 4254 with modified waistband, skirt

Hollywood 1412: circa 1940s

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H1412-022311-a2

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Pattern used:

H1412-020611-patternView

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Hollywood 1412: Franken-Suit, circa 1940s

Project Details:

Pattern: Hollywood 1412, circa 1940s. I used 2 other patterns to replicate the look found on the envelope: Burda 8155, a modern pencil skirt pattern, and DuBarry 4390, my TNT (tried and true) 1940s shirt-dress pattern.

Pattern Sizing: Size 16, 34 bust. However this was missing the entire bodice top (and was replaced by a much smaller looking bodice top with a different collar and facing altogether.)

Description: Jacket with skirt and peplum.

Did it look like the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except for my modifications.

Fabric: Mystery polyester/cotton (?) that I got the last off the bolt of at the garment district last month. It has wonderful drape and I can’t stand singeing a piece to check for fiber content.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, had I chosen to read them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I can’t say, since the bodice was from DuBarry 5390 and the skirt was from Burda 8155. I do love the peplum and I think it’s very flattering.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: This pattern was missing the bodice and was incomplete. For the skirt I used Burda 8155, a modern pencil skirt pattern, and for the bodice I used DuBarry 4390, my TNT (tried and true) 1940s shirt-dress pattern.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don’t think I need another one of these in my closet, but if I did I sew this one again.

Burda 8155, Plum Pencil Skirt

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This is my TNT (tried and true) pencil skirt pattern, Burda 8155. This is my modified one-half of Hollywood 1412. I paired it with my pink floral Colette Sencha blouse, my wearable test muslin made over a year ago. The fabric is some mystery cotton? polyester? blend that I got the last off the bolt at the garment district last month.

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Finished project: F/W 2010

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The concept of capsule dressing is simple. Start with three bottoms and three tops, and mix and match. My original concept for Fall/Winter 2010 was to dress in all black and accessorize with shoes and brooches. I’ve taken that idea and modified it since so it’s even simpler. My accent piece is just one necklace, and I’ve reduced it to one pair of shoes for all outfits. Since black is hard to photograph, I’ve modified it to black/dark grey instead of all black.

Items I made:
Burda pencil skirt
High-waisted black wool trousers
Four-gored 1940s skirt

Items I own:
Black ankle boots
Black lace tights
Garnet necklace
Velvet jacket
Grey cardigan
Black victorian detailed blouse
Grey lace knit top

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Personal style: Design details that I navigated to (based on what I pulled from my closet as favorite items) included lace, velvet, tailored jackets, and antique or Victorian inspired details.

Here are some close-ups of the items I pulled from my closet:

jacket

Velvet jacket, dark grey with white small polka-dots, thrifted.

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Black Victorian top, with lace detail at yoke. I love the small buttons by the button placket and the mandarin collar, but this style seems really high-necked and constrictive to me most of the time. Still the details make it one of my favorites.

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black-lace-top2

Black lace yoke closeup.

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necklace

Garnet necklace, closeup. I’ve had this since high school. I love the antique-looking detail.

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Here are the combinations that worked well so far:

Burda-8155-b

Burda pencil skirt in black cotton sateen, black lace blouse, fishnet tights. I actually forgot to include the pencil skirt in the range of possibilities below, but it is very versatile and comfortble.

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pants-greylacetop-jacket

Wool high-waisted trousers, grey lace top, necklace, velvet jacket.

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pants-jacket

Wool high-waisted trousers, grey lace top, necklace, velvet jacket. Side view.

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Wool high-waisted trousers, black lace top, velvet jacket.

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Wool high-waisted trousers, black lace top, grey cardigan.

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Wool high-waisted trousers, grey lace top.

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Wool high-waisted trousers, grey lace top. Side view.

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gored-skirt

1940s four-gored skirt, grey lace top, lace tights.

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gored-skirt-cardigan

1940s four-gored skirt, grey lace top, cardigan, lace tights.

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gored-skirt-vicBlouse-cardigan

1940s four-gored skirt, black Victorian top, cardigan, lace tights.

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Conclusion: I’ve never seen the value of separates until now, especially separates that coincide with each other. I usually sew a wardrobe full of dresses and always feel like I don’t have enough variety. This year will definitely be the year of sewing separates.

This has also been a good exercise in determining my personal style. In the Fall/Winter (and perhaps more season as well), I’m drawn to antique-looking details and Victorian and Gothic styles. I like velvet, lace, and fabric that feels luscious with interesting design details.

Finished Project: Four-Gored Wool Skirt

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wool-skirt-front2

Blouse: Old Navy, many years ago
Wool skirt: homemade
Sweater with fur: thrifted
Shoes: Bass
Tights: H+M
Pin: belonged to my mother

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Alternate front view.

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Side view.

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I know I’m sporting old lady hair, but my hair isn’t set so it’s pinned up and hidden underneath a hat.

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View of sweater front buckle.

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wool-skirt-shoes

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I finished my boring yet practical wool skirt last week. The project was a little dull since sewing plain black wool isn’t very exciting, but I’ll get a lot of wear of this skirt. The pattern is self-drafted with very simple seams, no darts, and nothing bulky. The wool is thick but has good drape. I’ve already worn it once and it proved to be very warm during my walk to work. This project is also part of my Fall/Winter Capsule.