I promised myself no more patterns since my box that holds patterns can’t close anymore and I’ve been getting more into drafting my own patterns, but I was really intrigued by Simplicity 4514. The corset-inspired bodice is interesting, and I haven’t seen this detail yet in many of the 40s patterns that I have.
We had a work event last week that called for “black tie formal masquerade” and I didn’t have anything to wear.
Pattern used:
Simplicity 4774.
Notes:
I made this dress in about a week, finishing at the eleventh hour at 1 am the night before the event. I made a bodice of the top and used a dirndl skirt for the bottom since I didn’t want to cut into the lace border pattern. I underlined the silver lace with flesh-colored fabric, and it turned out better than I thought.
I’m fine with a dirndl silhouette, as long as there is a belt to hide all the gathering by the waistband. I plan to make this pattern again, making some modifications to the bodice (which is a little too long) and doing the gathering by machine instead of by hand, so it’s more even.
Sorry Guys Who Voted for the Silver Brocade (new indie band name?), I went with the nude lace at the end. But the silver might be used for the same pattern again at some point.
I got these patterns over the summer and only had a chance to talk about them now.
McCall’s 4589 skirt, circa 1970s. Could easily pass for 40s.
Butterick 4104, another 70s does 50s romper.
Simplicity 2331, circa 1950s. Love the sailor details.
Simplicity 3882. I definitely need more versatile blouses.
Simplicity 1554, circa 1940s.
I started my muslin of Simplicity 1554 the other day. I need more versatile blouses for the late summer/fall, and these make variations that look different enough. I had to make a lot of changes to the original pattern since it was way too big and boxy. This is my second muslin.
I got these beach rocks on the Oregon Coast. Much classier than using tins of food as pattern weights.
More beach rocks as pattern weights.
Muslin bodice front view.
Closeup of front view.
Front view.
Side view.
Closeup view.
Closeup of frog closure.
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Pattern used: Simplicity 3000, circa 1960s
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Pattern: Simplicity 3000, circa 1960s
Pattern Sizing: Bust 35 1/2, half size. (Pointless since I had to size the bodice by using my bodice block.)
Description: 1960s cheongsam.
Did it look like the pattern envelope when you were done sewing it? Yes.
Fabric: Red and gold brocade for the body.
Were the instructions easy to follow? I read the directions, then disregarded them since they didn’t make any sense to me.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like the frog closures.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? Yes!
Sizing issues: Firstly, the pattern I bought was too big for me. I had to make so many changes to the bodice that I just ended up taking my bodice block, transferring the front pieces to it and fitting it that way. I forgot to take into account the sleeves (now too big) and the collar (also too big), so I had to omit them in the end. I wish it had sleeves, but the omitted collar worked out well since the body pieces already have a high neckline. I used an invisible zipper for the center back.
New techniques learned: This was my first time doing piping. I put piping on the sleeveless seam parts and on the frog closure parts. I did not have a proper piping foot, so I was using my invisible zipper foot, which was a pain. The piped pieces would get stuck in the invisible zipper foot’s teeth. Then I found my non-invisible zipper foot and used that, and it worked out better.
Other notes: The brocade was really slippery and very hard to work with. I serged the seams whenever I had a chance to, since by touching it it would just fray.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don’t know if I need another cheongsam dress, so no. I would recommend it to others though.
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Unrelated note: My hair is finally long enough to set and look remotely vintage, but I miss my hair. Hair always grows so slowly when you’re waiting.
Smurfette (my dressform), modeling the finished product.
Closeup of the finished frog closure.
I finally finished Simplicity 3000. At some point this project stopped being enjoyable and just became a burden. I wanted to finish it just because it had some potential, but the process was far from fun. I still need to take proper photos with it.
This is the pattern I’m working with.
This is my first time doing piping.
Inserting an invisible zipper using painter’s tape as a guide.
Simplicity 3000 so far has been very difficult to work with. This is my second time working with brocade, and it is very slippery. It unravels very easily also and is very delicate. I’m using a smaller needle and silk pins just in case, but it doesn’t seem to be helping.
Front view.
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Back view.
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Side front detail view.
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Back button belt detail.
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Pattern used:
McCall’s 3646, circa 1950s
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I finally finished McCall’s 3546 last week. This is my first time sewing a 1950s pattern. The bodice and skirt were cut as one piece, and I made everything as-is, with no modifications. The hardest part about this pattern was cutting out the pieces, since the pieces were very long. Definitely an adjustment from my more fabric-saving 1940s patterns that I’m more used to.
Style notes: This is my hair as it is. Not overly modern-looking, but not overly vintage either. The last time I tried to set my hair it was way too short, layered, and uncooperative, but I’ll try setting it again for the next sewing project.
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Pattern Review
Pattern: McCall’s 3646, circa 1950s
Pattern Sizing: Bust 34, size 12
Description: Sleeveless 1950s wiggle dress with a huge collar.
Did it look like the pattern envelope when you were done sewing it? Yes.
Fabric: Navy blue gabardine for the body, white gabardine for the collar.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? My favorite part is the huge collar.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? I changed the order of construction. I made the buttonholes last, not first. I omitted the facings on the shoulder and used bias tape instead. I serged all the seams so they’d be tidy. I also shortened the skirt to knee-length for me because I am short.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will sew this again, but maybe draft a set of sleeves for it next time.
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McCall’s 5646, on Smurfette (my dressform, because she is blue and headless.)
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I still have some hand-sewing to do on the facings and that’s about it. Hopefully proper pictures soon.