Butterick 5209 in View A (halter top)
Here are some pictures of my latest project in a white eyelet cotton:
Tag Archives: sewing
Finished Object: McCalls 5094
Pattern Review:McCalls 5094, view F
Pattern Description: Mid-knee lined dress
Pattern Sizing: 8-18. I made a size 10, then had to make it a lot smaller — so this is probably a size 8.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, for the most part.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The straps cannot be adjusted once the lining is in place. I made a muslin of the bodice before starting, and adjusted the strap length there.
Fabric Used: Cotton/polyester blend for the self. Polyester black lining.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made a muslin of the bodice which was a size 10 and found that it was too large. I adjusted it until it was the right fit, maybe a size 8. I also took some width out of the skirt. I redrafted it completely based on my own measurements, ending up with a flared skirt that was not as full. I also used an invisible zipper in the back.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would, with adjustments.
Conclusion I really like the retro feel of this dress. It was very finicky to get the fit right, and way the bodice is assembled makes very little room for adjustment. Nevertheless it fits, and I will probably make this version again, only with a circle skirt attached.
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McCalls 5094: progress updates
It’s been increasingly difficult getting decent photographs of McCall’s 5094, but it is finished. Pattern review and better photos to come.
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Butterick 5209: Wearable Muslin
I made the first one (halter top version). I’ve already worn this out and plan to make this in a better quality fabric with better drape, but I made this version to test for fit. The skirt was a self-drafted circle skirt and deviated from the pattern.
Fabric used: cotton, 3 yards (+ leftovers)
Things I would do differently next time:
- The skirt side seam did not match the bodice side seam. Must match better next time.
- Use better fabric. The cotton I used sticks to itself when walking.
- Use lining fabric instead of lining with self fabric.
- Cut the skirt 1 inch longer.
- Instead of sewing the top halter part together, change into ties.
Butterick 5209 (in progress)
A Thrifted/Homemade Wardrobe
I’ve been slowly trying to transition my wardrobe from ready to wear to thrifted/homemade items. I haven’t
been too impressed with the quality of the clothing I’ve found lately in RTW, and I’ve always been attracted
to vintage or vintage-inspired clothing.
Here is a list of things that I should be sewing:
Rather Buy Than Make
- socks, tights, fishnets
- slips
- coats, outerwear
Things to Sew
- dresses
- skirts – a-line, circle skirts
- jeans
- shorts
Things to Thrift
- tailored jackets
- dresses in difficult fabrics (velvet)
- cardigans
Pattern Review: Simplicity 2906, view A
Pattern Review: Simplicity 2906, view A
Pattern Description: Misses skirts and purse. Skirts have side zipper.
Pattern Sizing: 8-18. I made size 10, view A.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. I glanced at most of the directions and did not find assembly too difficult. I serged the seams first, then assembled the parts according to the instructions. I learned how to make a lapped zipper from this project.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the vintage feel of the skirt.
Fabric Used: Violet checkered shirting fabric. Nice and light, and gives a good drape to the skirt.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Fast and easy to make. The basic skirt is two pattern pieces, with a side zipper.
Conclusion I will definitely make more of these skirts in the future.
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Basic Pattern Fitting
- When buying a pattern for an upper-body garment (jacket, dress, shirt, blouse, or coat), choose the size that fits your shoulders and neckline
- When buying a lower-body pattern (pants or skirt), choose a size that fits your waist and upper hip. Shoulders/necklines and waists/upper hips on patterns are very difficult to alter, so it’s easiest to start off with the closest possible fit right from the pattern envelope.
- When you choose tops, use your chest measurement (above the bust, as high as possible under your arms, and over your shoulder blades—don’t worry if the tape isn’t perfectly horizontal at all points) and alter for the bust if there’s more than a 2-in. difference between your chest and bust measurements. It’s always much easier to make a pattern larger than smaller.
(source: Threads Magazine)
Pattern Review: New Look 6567, view B
My official sewing assistant, Bean, the black cat shown below, looks absolutely aghast while laying out the pieces before cutting. It wasn’t until five days later after cutting and assembling the pattern that I realized why.
When fitting the pattern initially, I had chosen a measurement based on my full bust. Since the Big 4 write patterns for B cups, I should have used my high bust measurement and done an FBA. I didn’t realize this until after assembly, however. I cut a size 14 which was way too large. The fit in the upper shoulders and back was enormous, and led to gaping. The seams were huge as well. I had to trim down the side seams by a good 4 inches. Despite these ominous signs of disaster, I still kept plodding on, only to realize after assembly that I had cut the pattern that was much much too large. The sleeves were also much too large. The armholes themselves looked like cap sleeves on me (proof that it was still much much too large), so I decided to leave them out. The princess seams were also very bulky and lumpy, again, due to user error.
Since this is due to user error (and not the actual pattern), here is my review.
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Pattern Review: New Look 6567, view B
Pattern Description: Princess seam dress with sweetheart neckline.
Pattern Sizing: Size A, 6-16; European sizes 32-42. I cut a size 14 based on my full bust measurement which was incorrect. I should have cut a size 6 based on my high bust measurement, then done a princess seam FBA.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I glanced at most of the directions and did not find assembly too difficult. I serged the seams first, then assembled the parts according to the instructions.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the princess seams and the sweetheart neckline.
Fabric Used:
Medium-weight cotton tweed in black. This fabric has a tiny bit of stretch, which was good, but it also picks up lint and everything else that isn’t nailed down. I had to keep the lint remover handy while fitting the dressform. Sewing assistant Bean also insisted on sitting on all of the cut pieces, accumulating tufts of Bombay cat fur everywhere. Next time I need to try this in a lighter-weight material.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I shortened the pattern at the waist and shortened the hem to knee-length based on measurements. Since I made a mistake in cutting a size too large, I had to take in the side seams immensely – about 4-5 inches. There was gaping by the shoulder due to poor torso fit (user error). In the future, I will also lower the neckline by an inch or so.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will sew this again with all the knowledge that I know now. Definitely cut based on high bust measurement, and do an FBA. And a wearable muslin beforehand will help.
Conclusion
This pattern is worth a try. Will re-evaluate pattern again in the future. Inadvertantly, this pattern taught me a lot: I learned how to make bias tape for binding the armholes (which became sleeve-caps), and I learned how to properly interface necklines.
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sewing: McCall’s M5582
project started: McCall’s M5582.
I wanted a 50′s style dress that was simple yet whimsical, which led to McCall’s M5582 in a dessert-themed pink print. so far I’ve just cut and measured the fabric. I plan to line this with muslin or rayon.