Category: pattern drafting

What I’m Working on This Week: Pattern Drafting from Something Ready To Wear

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I started drafting this pattern over the weekend based on something I bought RTW a few weeks ago. I’m not done yet, hopefully in a few days. I’m going for something modern and Japanese-inspired.

Oh, and you can find me on instagram here.

Cigarette Pants, Self-Drafted

Front view, #1.

Sweater: thrifted
Pants: self-drafted, homemade
Blouse: Daffy’s, from many years ago,
Necklace: homemade
Leopard platform stilettos: thrifted

Front view, #2.

Front view, #3.

Side view.

Closeup view.

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These pants were inspired by Midge Daniels. After my pants-fitting debacle a few weeks ago, I finally decided to draft my own.

Fabric used: medium-weight cotton sateen, with 1% stretch

Construction notes: I used my skirt sloper to draft these pants. I drafted these to sit at the natural waist with no ease and used fabric with 1% stretch. I made my muslin with stretch fabric and made my final version with cotton sateen. I used an invisible zipper on the side.

Beta-testing notes: I’ve already worn these pants out and about and they’re very comfy. Will definitely make again, either in more cotton sateen or brushed wool corduroy.

Parade of Pant Muslins, Part 2

Pants drafting.

I know I said I’d use my last franken-pattern as a base, but I still didn’t have enough confidence in it to cut into my stretch good black brushed wool corduroy or my cotton sateen. I had such a hard time with Clover that I thought I would just draft my own pants.

Since I was going to be using a stretch fabric, I drafted these to my measurements with no ease. I used a white fabric with similar stretch properties as my muslin. I think this is my most successful pants muslin yet.

Front view.

Side view.

Almost back view.

Sitting view.

Edit: I actually finished these pants using cotton sateen and tested the live version yesterday and it held up pretty well. More photos to come.

Face Shapes and Necklines

I plan to revisit my Sencha blouse again soon, which had me thinking about necklines and face shapes. I still wear my keyhole neckline Sencha, but I’ve never felt comfortable with the high neckline. I’ll probably draft the neckline differently once I tackle this project again for a more wearable Sencha based on the guidelines below.

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What face shape am I?

The best way to determine your face shape is to stand in front of a mirror. Pull your hair back and draw a faint line on the mirror, following the outline of your face.

Here are some examples of different face shapes:


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The most balanced face shape is the oval face shape. The combination of the face shape and the neckline aim to create balance, giving the illusion of a more oval-shaped face. Here are some examples of face shapes and necklines.

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The Round Face

The round face needs vertical space to balance out the roundness. Necklines that are flattering include v-necks, shirt/blouse collars, Queen Anne necklines and Empire necklines.

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The Long Face

The long face needs horizontal space to balance out the longness, making the face appear wider and more oval. Necklines that are flattering include using necklines that are shallower, and which do not generate such a downward focus. Neck styles as the Sabrina, Bateau, Portrait and Cowl Neck, are also flattering.

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The Angular Face

The angular face needs curves to balance out the angles. These can come in a variety of neckline styles, such as the Scoop Neck, Sabrina, Sweetheart and Cowl Neck styles. The triangle, inverted triangle and diamond shape face all fall under the Angular Face category, as do those individuals with a Square Face.

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The Oval Face

The oval face can wear generally any look, as it’s already balanced.


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Here are other examples of necklines and face shapes:





Sarong Dress: Self-drafted, 1950s inspired








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Pattern used: I drafted this pattern myself, based on my reference photos of Alfred Shaheen’s work.

Pattern notes: I used a Hawaiian looking turquoise linen. I’m pretty happy with the fit. I only wish I’d made this sooner since there isn’t much summer left.

Sleeves, Necklines, Collars, and Dress Types

I’ve recently ventured into drafting patterns starting from my basic bodice and skirt sloper. The fit issues are minimal, since the sloper is made skin tight. Design ease is added as you go along. I found these reference pictures useful for ideas on basic sleeves, necklines, collars, and dress types. These are from Vogue Sewing, circa 1982.

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Sarong Dress: Self-drafted, 1950s inspired

I drafted this Sarong Dress based on my reference photos of Shaheen’s work. Here are my sketches and plans for how I started the project.

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shaheen-turquoise-aThis dress started as an idea that I had in my head for about a week or so. The fabric looks blue here but it’s more of a turquoise. This bright Hawaiian-inspired print is my rebellion from wearing all black year-round for the past 10+ years.

shaheen-turquoise-bI drafted the bodice top based on my bodice block. I made a muslin beforehand to see how everything fit.

shaheen-turquoise-cProgress of the dress so far. At this point I had a feeling that the bodice was too boxy, so I made some gathers that i ended up incorporating into the final design.

shaheen-turquoise-dThe skirt is from my tried and true straight skirt pattern from the 1940s, with pleats at the waist. I sewed down the pleats since I wanted it to be sleek, and added a back vent and tapered the skirt so it would resemble a pencil skirt. The pleats don’t line up, but I’m OK with that.

shaheen-turquoise-eDress progress so far. The interfacing hasn’t been stitched down yet. The sarong drape is just pinned in place.


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