Butterick 5209: Retro Reissue, circa 1940s









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Pattern used:

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Pattern notes/alterations:

This dress was from Butterick 5209, a reprint of the 1949 pattern.

My original pattern review is here, but I made some changes to the pattern before sewing this version. Referring to my original post, I added more gathers to the bustline, since the old version was unflattering. I drafted the back to be narrower. I changed the skirt to a simple four-gored skirt based off of Simplicity 2123, a 1940s pattern. I added an invisible side zipper. This pattern was finicky and hard to fit, but I made a muslin beforehand and stuck to it. It’s very flattering, and with cap sleeves is more wearable than the first version. The gathers are a little too high, but I think it is still flattering and is very wearable.

This is my first time adding rick-rack. It gives the dress a very cute feel, and I think I will have to restrain myself from putting rick-rack on everything I make now, especially 1940s dresses. My mom saw this and said it looked very “I Love Lucy”, which I considered a compliment.

Half of sewing is not just garment construction, but how the garment is presented, photographed and styled. I recently bought these heeled saddle shoes, and although these are not authentic vintage, I think it makes everything styled in the 1940s look that much more polished. I’ll probably be wearing these all the time in the Fall/Winter with fishnets, stockings and tights.